Sunday, August 29, 2010

[papercreters] Having trouble uploading photos

I will try again later, have tried three times to upload photos even tried gif file instead of jpg.

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[papercreters] Just posted some new photos of completed Papercrete patio

I said completed, and that is not completely true, although the poured walls are done we are going to make the Papercrete stones and apply over the poured walls, boy this has been a busy summer for us, we are getting to old for this hard work. But we are not going to quir until it looks pretty much like the dreaming pictures, later we will post pictures of the inside.

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Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Re: [papercreters] New papercrete website



I visited his site and there are so many broken links I sent him and email and told him I would love to visit again when it was fixed. It has some great potential but with the broken links it makes it more frustrating than useful.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 11:26 PM
Subject: [papercreters] New papercrete website

 

 I have a friend who is a designer. He is so impressed with papercete that he has added a whole page on it. For any who are interested, here's the address if you want to check it out:
 
http://www.lxrdesign.biz/Papercrete.htm

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





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Monday, August 23, 2010

Re: [papercreters] Cool house



Judith, that's what I've noticed as well with the old adobe buildings, such as California's Missions.  I have visited this one Mission recently about 3 or 4 times, to photograph, and one day I was nearly heat stroked to death, well.. that's what it felt like for a few hours.. turns out it was 110 there if you can imagine. This is Mission San Antonio de Padua, in Monterey County.  The whole building is constructed of mud brick.  It was I would estimate about 85 degrees in the hallway between the church and another building, breeze going through was cooler than out in the open but also the bricks did not heat up where the wind passed through.


I think there is something more in the works than simple R-value.  I think it's also mass-value.  Dense materials have a resistance to temperature change because of the mass cold stored up.  And it takes longer for the more massive objects to warm up than the less massive objects.  


On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 9:20 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

I bought 2 thermometers and put one inside my little building and one outside. The inside one read 82 and the outside one was 103. After I finished peeling 4 vigas I went and sat in there and was so comfortable with a pleasant breeze coming through.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





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[papercreters] New papercrete website



 I have a friend who is a designer. He is so impressed with papercete that he has added a whole page on it. For any who are interested, here's the address if you want to check it out:
 
http://www.lxrdesign.biz/Papercrete.htm

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





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[papercreters] Cool house



I bought 2 thermometers and put one inside my little building and one outside. The inside one read 82 and the outside one was 103. After I finished peeling 4 vigas I went and sat in there and was so comfortable with a pleasant breeze coming through.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith




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Sunday, August 22, 2010

RE: [papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES



I don't know who did the wonderful sculpture for the contest we had last summer but I think it would be worthwhile to tlook up the pictures and find out what their formula was. As I remember it it was a very smooth looking thing that was cast in a mold.
 
I have no experience with using papercrete as sculpture material but am fascinated by what can be done with it. I hope you follow up with some pictures of what you come up with.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



 


To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: carolflickinger2@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 19:45:32 -0600
Subject: RE: [papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES

 
Zoe, I have been making recycled art, specifically paper mache sculptures, for many years.  I have photos on my facebook page, if you would like to see them.  It was actually a high school art project that has kept my interest for years.  This method uses old glass (recycling), such as chipped or broken plates, bowls, glasses, or drink bottles (wine bottles word really well, but you probably don't want the kids bringing that to school).  Using epoxy, connect the pieces together into an interesting shape (any shape is interesting), and then cover with paper mache.  When dry, spray paint it, then paint additional detail on it.  Using this method I don't think you would need cement or clay.  You can tear up newspaper, soak it for a couple hours and then pulp it in a blender or you can buy bricks of pulverized paper at Michael's Craft store and just add water (it already contains glue).


To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: prrr@talk21.com
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 23:53:47 +0000
Subject: Re:[papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES

 
A cement mixer is the wrong type of mixer really, paper doesnt pulp by being tumbled. However...

I gather some people have used shredded paper plus cement in a standard cement mixer, but I've no experience with it. I'd also hazard a guess that if you added a couple of bricks it may help the paper partially pulp.

Its also possible to substitute some (or maybe even all) of the cement with clay. I vaguely wonder whether you could teach them about recycling by using starchy food leftovers from one day - you'd have to apply it thinly so it dries fast though, as with no lime it would otherwise moulder.

Finally a hand held kitchen blender can make small amounts. I've been doing that for test samples.

NT





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RE: [papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES



Zoe, I have been making recycled art, specifically paper mache sculptures, for many years.  I have photos on my facebook page, if you would like to see them.  It was actually a high school art project that has kept my interest for years.  This method uses old glass (recycling), such as chipped or broken plates, bowls, glasses, or drink bottles (wine bottles word really well, but you probably don't want the kids bringing that to school).  Using epoxy, connect the pieces together into an interesting shape (any shape is interesting), and then cover with paper mache.  When dry, spray paint it, then paint additional detail on it.  Using this method I don't think you would need cement or clay.  You can tear up newspaper, soak it for a couple hours and then pulp it in a blender or you can buy bricks of pulverized paper at Michael's Craft store and just add water (it already contains glue).


To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: prrr@talk21.com
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 23:53:47 +0000
Subject: Re:[papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES

 
A cement mixer is the wrong type of mixer really, paper doesnt pulp by being tumbled. However...

I gather some people have used shredded paper plus cement in a standard cement mixer, but I've no experience with it. I'd also hazard a guess that if you added a couple of bricks it may help the paper partially pulp.

Its also possible to substitute some (or maybe even all) of the cement with clay. I vaguely wonder whether you could teach them about recycling by using starchy food leftovers from one day - you'd have to apply it thinly so it dries fast though, as with no lime it would otherwise moulder.

Finally a hand held kitchen blender can make small amounts. I've been doing that for test samples.

NT




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Re:[papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES

A cement mixer is the wrong type of mixer really, paper doesnt pulp by being tumbled. However...

I gather some people have used shredded paper plus cement in a standard cement mixer, but I've no experience with it. I'd also hazard a guess that if you added a couple of bricks it may help the paper partially pulp.

Its also possible to substitute some (or maybe even all) of the cement with clay. I vaguely wonder whether you could teach them about recycling by using starchy food leftovers from one day - you'd have to apply it thinly so it dries fast though, as with no lime it would otherwise moulder.

Finally a hand held kitchen blender can make small amounts. I've been doing that for test samples.


NT


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Re:[papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES



Hi Zoe,

Welcome to the group. We had a couple of sculptors on this group using papercrete last summer, but haven't heard from them in a while. I'm an ex-sculptor unless you count the stuff I build as sculpture, in which case I still am. For the equipment I make, form follows function so they are only sculptural in a steampunk way. Domes are geometric inside and organic outside.

Papercrete is great for sculpture, works like clay in many ways. And you end up with clean hands, unlike working concrete. It is still good to wear gloves though, because the water is alkaline after you mix in cement.

A concrete mixer isn't ideal for papercrete unless you're starting with cellulose insulation and just have to stir in the portland cement. If you are starting with paper then more of a blender action is faster, even if you have shredded paper. For large batches I use my no-tow mixer to get about 15-20 cubic feet at a time. For small batches a power spray washer and a plastic drum makes about 5 cubic feet. There are a few persistent people who mix paper to pulp in a cement mixer. I only tried it once, so I'll leave it to them to tell their methods.

Look back through the last few weeks' archives and find Judith's pictures of her hand applied roof. I think you'll like it. Here's the start of mine, waiting for a day without thunderstorms to get another coat.


--  spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  http://Starship-Enterprises.Net  Zoe said: 

Hi, I work with schoolchildren when I am employed on short term contracts as a community Artist.
I have worked as a brickies/mason's labourer in the past and am used to using a cement mixer.
I have my own mixer.
I use my own recipe for making cement sculptures that are hand formed on a metal armature.
I am considering that papercrete would be a better medium to use with children as is introduces recycling and would make lightweight sculptures that will be easier to move and handle, compared to the heavy sculptures I currently make at home.
I would like to make contact with other sculptors using this medium and gain advice and recipes that would be ideal for children to use.
I have an opportunity to engage Primary school students in making some large pieces of sculpture to be sited outdoors.
Location Australia, Western Australia (mediterranean type climate)
Any and all advice would be much appreciated.
Zoe.  


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[papercreters] PAPERCRETE SCULPTURES

Hi, I work with schoolchildren when I am employed on short term contracts as a community Artist.
I have worked as a brickies/mason's labourer in the past and am used to using a cement mixer.
I have my own mixer.
I use my own recipe for making cement sculptures that are hand formed on a metal armature.
I am considering that papercrete would be a better medium to use with children as is introduces recycling and would make lightweight sculptures that will be easier to move and handle, compared to the heavy sculptures I currently make at home.
I would like to make contact with other sculptors using this medium and gain advice and recipes that would be ideal for children to use.
I have an opportunity to engage Primary school students in making some large pieces of sculpture to be sited outdoors.
Location Australia, Western Australia (mediterranean type climate)
Any and all advice would be much appreciated.
Zoe.

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Saturday, August 14, 2010

[papercreters] Pouring our last 4 foot high patio wall

This will be our last half wall and we thought it would be a good place to do like Judith has been doing, and that is to use papercrete blocks that have no other purpose and will help save papercrete. I put down a fresh bed of PC under each block before I set the block into it, that way it will be completely surrounded with fresh PC, I noticeed even though I wet the blocks first they still drew the water out of the fresh PC. The three I used are the first two block attempts from last year, using a press and a form to make them, they can be seen in my photo file, the one that is the same color of the wall is the one I sawed out of the old wall I poured last year in order to install a window buck. I am hoping all will work well and not cause the wall to crack or weaken. Only time will tell.
BTB

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[papercreters] Re: Mortar and OSB?



Well, because I've tried it. You notice you said mortar and not PC. I don't believe PC will stick to OSB as well as mortar. The reason I know mortar will stick to painted OSB is I've tried it and the reason it sticks is because weathered OSB is very rough even after being painted, the paint just help seal the OSB from the possilibility of water getting through the PC stones, the mortar on the back sides of the stones that holds the stones to the mortar applied to the chickenwire or wire mesh, which ever I can afford to use. If you think about it, what do we think will help protect PC walls from the weather? Sand and Cement mixture, right? So if that is true, then sand and cement (mortar) should protect OSB, especially painted OSB from what ever small chance of moisture from getting through all those layers of PC, mortar and more mortar and paint. If the weather has not done great harm to my OSB after two years of rain and snow and no paint, then I don't believe it will get through those layers and do any more harm. I feel pretty sure that mortar applied to chicken wire or wire mesh screwed to the studs rather than just the OSB will hold much better than mortar applied to chicken wire or wire mesh screwed to the OSB under tar paper, the reason it would be just screwed to the OSB once the tar paper is applied is because you can no longer see the studs once the tar paper is in place, I quite sure one could figure out where the studs are by measuring but I want the mortar to grab hold of the painted OSB as well as the chickenwire or wire mesh, and in my mind the tar paper acts as a barrier and the resulting mortar and chickenwire or wire mesh would just be a shell supported only be the nails or screws to the OSB or studs if they can be located every time and there would be no contact with the actual structure, or OSB in this case. Years ago out in California (and maybe so today as well) tar paper was applied directly over the studs (no sheathing what so ever) and chickenwire was applied directly over the tar paper then stucco was applied, this makes sense because the tar paper acted as a backing for the stucco, 1. To keep the stucco from falling through and 2. To help keep moisture and wind out of the house because there was no sheathing.

BTB 
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Neal Chabot <sire@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> What makes you think that mortar adheres to OSB, especially after you paint it ?
>
> Neal
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "countryatheartok" criswells.ok@...
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 8:02:41 AM
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Just posted some new photos of new walls
>
>  
>
>
>
>
> Thanks, I am hoping I soon will be able to show how to install papercrete stones to be used as siding over the papercrete walls and over OSB. I contacted Kelly Hart at
> www.greenhomebuilding.com  and asked his advise as to whether or not he thought I should apply tar paper over the OSB before I installed chickwire or wire mesh and then apply a thin layer of morter and then after the thin layer is dry apply morter to back of my stones and stick them in place. He said he thought applying the tar paper would protect the OSB from moisture that might through the papercrete stones. I think I am going to not take the advise and just apply a good exterior paint to the OSB, which by the way has been exposed to the weather for at least 2 years not paint and with no real damage. In my mind if you apply tar paper over OSB and then chickenwire or wire mesh and then your thin layer of morter you are creating a shell that is only supported by the nails or screws that hold the chickenwire or wire mesh to the OSB, the tar paper would prevent the morter from adhereing to the OSB, which in my mind is what I want it to do, I don't want just the nail or screws alone to hold the morter and stones, I would feel more secure knowing that the morter and chickwire or wire mesh and screws as well as the OSB are all holding the morter and stones. 
>



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[papercreters] Mortar and OSB?



What makes you think that mortar adheres to OSB, especially after you paint it?

Neal

 


----- Original Message -----
From: "countryatheartok" <criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 8:02:41 AM
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Just posted some new photos of new walls

 

Thanks, I am hoping I soon will be able to show how to install papercrete stones to be used as siding over the papercrete walls and over OSB. I contacted Kelly Hart at

www.greenhomebuilding.com and asked his advise as to whether or not he thought I should apply tar paper over the OSB before I installed chickwire or wire mesh and then apply a thin layer of morter and then after the thin layer is dry apply morter to back of my stones and stick them in place. He said he thought applying the tar paper would protect the OSB from moisture that might through the papercrete stones. I think I am going to not take the advise and just apply a good exterior paint to the OSB, which by the way has been exposed to the weather for at least 2 years not paint and with no real damage. In my mind if you apply tar paper over OSB and then chickenwire or wire mesh and then your thin layer of morter you are creating a shell that is only supported by the nails or screws that hold the chickenwire or wire mesh to the OSB, the tar paper would prevent the morter from adhereing to the OSB, which in my mind is what I want it to do, I don't want just the nail or screws alone to hold the morter and stones, I would feel more secure knowing that the morter and chickwire or wire mesh and screws as well as the OSB are all holding the morter and stones. 



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Friday, August 13, 2010

[papercreters] Re: Just posted some new photos of new walls

In our damp climate (about 56" rain per annum), a vapour barrier on the exterior of an insualting wall is a Bad Idea. It causes saturation by condensation inside the wall, leading to mould, and with papercrete there would be rot too.

A vapour barrier on the interior side is a good thing, keeps the wall drier. The way water vapour works with house walls is often misunderstood.


NT


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "countryatheartok" <criswells.ok@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, I am hoping I soon will be able to show how to install
> papercrete stones to be used as siding over the papercrete walls and
> over OSB. I contacted Kelly Hart at www.greenhomebuilding.com
> <http://www.greenhomebuilding.com> and asked his advise as to whether
> or not he thought I should apply tar paper over the OSB before I
> installed chickwire or wire mesh and then apply a thin layer of morter
> and then after the thin layer is dry apply morter to back of my stones
> and stick them in place. He said he thought applying the tar paper would
> protect the OSB from moisture that might through the papercrete stones.
> I think I am going to not take the advise and just apply a good exterior
> paint to the OSB, which by the way has been exposed to the weather for
> at least 2 years not paint and with no real damage. In my mind if you
> apply tar paper over OSB and then chickenwire or wire mesh and then your
> thin layer of morter you are creating a shell that is only supported by
> the nails or screws that hold the chickenwire or wire mesh to the OSB,
> the tar paper would prevent the morter from adhereing to the OSB, which
> in my mind is what I want it to do, I don't want just the nail or screws
> alone to hold the morter and stones, I would feel more secure knowing
> that the morter and chickwire or wire mesh and screws as well as the OSB
> are all holding the morter and stones.
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <tunaturner@> wrote:
> >
> > Your work looks really professional. I have enjoyed watching the
> progress.
> >
> > --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "countryatheartok" criswells.ok@
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > We are in the process of taking down the forms and are getting ready
> to
> > > form the last half wall with a concrete cap. The photos show how the
> > > half wall is attached to the window wall we poured last summer, the
> pool
> > > is for the grandbabies, they love it under the patio cover, the
> water
> > > stays to cold for my taste, it is only tempory, when the last half
> wall
> > > is complete it will come out and we are hoping we can afford a hot
> tub
> > > for that area next year.
> > >
> >
>


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Wednesday, August 11, 2010

[papercreters] Re: Just posted some new photos of new walls



Thanks, I am hoping I soon will be able to show how to install papercrete stones to be used as siding over the papercrete walls and over OSB. I contacted Kelly Hart at

www.greenhomebuilding.com and asked his advise as to whether or not he thought I should apply tar paper over the OSB before I installed chickwire or wire mesh and then apply a thin layer of morter and then after the thin layer is dry apply morter to back of my stones and stick them in place. He said he thought applying the tar paper would protect the OSB from moisture that might through the papercrete stones. I think I am going to not take the advise and just apply a good exterior paint to the OSB, which by the way has been exposed to the weather for at least 2 years not paint and with no real damage. In my mind if you apply tar paper over OSB and then chickenwire or wire mesh and then your thin layer of morter you are creating a shell that is only supported by the nails or screws that hold the chickenwire or wire mesh to the OSB, the tar paper would prevent the morter from adhereing to the OSB, which in my mind is what I want it to do, I don't want just the nail or screws alone to hold the morter and stones, I would feel more secure knowing that the morter and chickwire or wire mesh and screws as well as the OSB are all holding the morter and stones. 
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "Charles" <tunaturner@...> wrote:
>
> Your work looks really professional. I have enjoyed watching the progress.
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "countryatheartok" criswells.ok@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > We are in the process of taking down the forms and are getting ready to
> > form the last half wall with a concrete cap. The photos show how the
> > half wall is attached to the window wall we poured last summer, the pool
> > is for the grandbabies, they love it under the patio cover, the water
> > stays to cold for my taste, it is only tempory, when the last half wall
> > is complete it will come out and we are hoping we can afford a hot tub
> > for that area next year.
> >
>


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Monday, August 9, 2010

[papercreters] Re: Just posted some new photos of new walls

Your work looks really professional. I have enjoyed watching the progress.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "countryatheartok" <criswells.ok@...> wrote:
>
>
> We are in the process of taking down the forms and are getting ready to
> form the last half wall with a concrete cap. The photos show how the
> half wall is attached to the window wall we poured last summer, the pool
> is for the grandbabies, they love it under the patio cover, the water
> stays to cold for my taste, it is only tempory, when the last half wall
> is complete it will come out and we are hoping we can afford a hot tub
> for that area next year.
>


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Sunday, August 8, 2010

[papercreters] Just posted some new photos of new walls

We are in the process of taking down the forms and are getting ready to
form the last half wall with a concrete cap. The photos show how the
half wall is attached to the window wall we poured last summer, the pool
is for the grandbabies, they love it under the patio cover, the water
stays to cold for my taste, it is only tempory, when the last half wall
is complete it will come out and we are hoping we can afford a hot tub
for that area next year.


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Thursday, August 5, 2010

RE: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?



Thanks Ev, but I must say that it was you guys who got me off to a good start on this stuff. It just keeps getting better all the time. If you're coming to NM this summer you better come by and see me.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith



 


To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: evelynanne8@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 17:02:08 -0700
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?

 
You go girl!

On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 3:19 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

I have 2 small buildings I'm working on simultaneously. The one with the roof partially done is what we started in Sept. The other one, which is on the blog is one I started in April. Just working weekends with a little help it took 120 hours to get the walls up. When I finish the roof on bldg #1 I will start the one on #2. But first I have to get the vigas peeled. If all goes according to plan they will both have roofs and floors by the end of fall.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith






To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 18:51:55 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?

 

Judith, is the building on your blog, the same one that was started at
the Abiquiu Papercrete Gathering?

BTB

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS
<williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> I have had problems with shrinkage of papercrete away from wood. I did
an 11' slip form wall between 2 large posts, 12" wide. 2 years later I
can see that it has really shrunk a lot. This wall has shrunk in about
4" from the vertical logs that serve as posts. Also about 2" on either
side. I suppose that if I were to finish this wall (the property has
been sold and its future is uncertain) I could fill in the gaps with
more pc or some foam insulation.
>
> This is why with the newest projects I have used forms that allow the
papercrete to flow around the entire perimeter of the building
uninterrupted. I have left a 4' opening for a door (to be widened later
after all shrinkage is done) but was sure to make the courses under and
over the door as strong as could be. So far I've seen only small
inconsequential cracks around the top corners of doors in the first
building I did this way. I have made some improvements to the second
building and see no cracks.
>
> I use a mix of soaked cardboard, about 3) 55 gallon drums per 200
gallon load to which I add 1/2 bag of cement. I also have access to
pumice and add about 15 large shovels full. I believe this does a lot to
increase mineral content and minimize shrinkage. I have used sand in the
past but not any more. It seemed to sink to the bottom of the mixer no
matter what I did. Now if I don't have any pumice I just use the
cardboard and cement. The more cement the less shrinkage. If you are
slip forming then weight of the cured product isn't as important. When I
first started making blocks I used a recipe that called for 2 bags of
cement. Now I am using those blocks in my slip formed walls and can't
believe how heavy they are.
>
> I am now about 2/3 done with my roof on the first building. I put up
vigas about 30" apart and tacked a double layer of chicken wire over
them and down the sides a little bit. I pour the slurry on top and
surprisingly enough it doesn't fall through. I am careful to continue
the roof papercrete so it flows right into the walls. I want this to me
as monolithic as possible. What this building reminds me of is an upside
down styrofoam cooler. I have embedded some old blocks in the roof to
use them up and take up some space (less slurry to mix and lift to the
roof). So far it's coming out very well.
>
> Your mixer sounds like a good one. Spaceman and I have been discussing
using a small stationary mixer and somehow putting it right on top of
the wall forms. That way you could mix up the slurry, empty it right
into the form then move the mixer along as you go. If I had some
mechanical ability and knowledge of tools etc I would try this. If
anyone is interested in coming to work with me and wants to try this
they are more than welcome.
>
> Anyway, good luck with your shed project. It sounds like it's going to
come out very cute.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at
http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: carlsondanjames@...
> Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 10:14:55 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Shrinkage?
>
>
>
>
>
> First off I would like to say 'You guys/gals are awesome!!'. I love
like minded people. Everyone I talk to about papercrete looks at me like
I have two heads.
>
> My first papercrete project will be a shed in the backyard. Something
that looks like a small cottage with a 3' front porch, front door with
windows on either side.
>
> I was thinking 12' X 10' with 8' walls, 8' double doors in the side.
Foundation of cement block 12" below and 12 above grade. Framing would
consist of rough cut lumber, 4x4 posts for the corners plus frame work
for the doors and windows, topped with 2x4.
>
> I am now thinking that shrinkage is going to be a problem and the
framework will have to go and make the walls 10" wide and load bearing.
>
> The roof is also bugging me because I want it made of papercrete as
well but I need some suggestions on how to make that work.
>
> My paper material will be box cardboard, recipe will be barrel filled
with pre-soaked cardboard, 1/2 bag of cement, filler ? (don' know yet)
probably sand.
>
> My mixer is going to be a 45 gallon plastic barrel with a 3" waste
outlet that they use in campers, the mixer is going to be a 1/4 hp
electric motor with a pulley connected via a belt to a 3 1/2' metal
shaft with mixing blades on it.
>
> In a 10" thick wall what is the width shrinkage? Does it shrink in the
length?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
>





--
"If you give yourself fully to this moment the next moment will turn out just right."

- Sequoyah Trueblood





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Re: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?



You go girl!


On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 3:19 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@hotmail.com> wrote:
 

I have 2 small buildings I'm working on simultaneously. The one with the roof partially done is what we started in Sept. The other one, which is on the blog is one I started in April. Just working weekends with a little help it took 120 hours to get the walls up. When I finish the roof on bldg #1 I will start the one on #2. But first I have to get the vigas peeled. If all goes according to plan they will both have roofs and floors by the end of fall.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 18:51:55 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?

 

Judith, is the building on your blog, the same one that was started at
the Abiquiu Papercrete Gathering?

BTB

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS
<williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> I have had problems with shrinkage of papercrete away from wood. I did
an 11' slip form wall between 2 large posts, 12" wide. 2 years later I
can see that it has really shrunk a lot. This wall has shrunk in about
4" from the vertical logs that serve as posts. Also about 2" on either
side. I suppose that if I were to finish this wall (the property has
been sold and its future is uncertain) I could fill in the gaps with
more pc or some foam insulation.
>
> This is why with the newest projects I have used forms that allow the
papercrete to flow around the entire perimeter of the building
uninterrupted. I have left a 4' opening for a door (to be widened later
after all shrinkage is done) but was sure to make the courses under and
over the door as strong as could be. So far I've seen only small
inconsequential cracks around the top corners of doors in the first
building I did this way. I have made some improvements to the second
building and see no cracks.
>
> I use a mix of soaked cardboard, about 3) 55 gallon drums per 200
gallon load to which I add 1/2 bag of cement. I also have access to
pumice and add about 15 large shovels full. I believe this does a lot to
increase mineral content and minimize shrinkage. I have used sand in the
past but not any more. It seemed to sink to the bottom of the mixer no
matter what I did. Now if I don't have any pumice I just use the
cardboard and cement. The more cement the less shrinkage. If you are
slip forming then weight of the cured product isn't as important. When I
first started making blocks I used a recipe that called for 2 bags of
cement. Now I am using those blocks in my slip formed walls and can't
believe how heavy they are.
>
> I am now about 2/3 done with my roof on the first building. I put up
vigas about 30" apart and tacked a double layer of chicken wire over
them and down the sides a little bit. I pour the slurry on top and
surprisingly enough it doesn't fall through. I am careful to continue
the roof papercrete so it flows right into the walls. I want this to me
as monolithic as possible. What this building reminds me of is an upside
down styrofoam cooler. I have embedded some old blocks in the roof to
use them up and take up some space (less slurry to mix and lift to the
roof). So far it's coming out very well.
>
> Your mixer sounds like a good one. Spaceman and I have been discussing
using a small stationary mixer and somehow putting it right on top of
the wall forms. That way you could mix up the slurry, empty it right
into the form then move the mixer along as you go. If I had some
mechanical ability and knowledge of tools etc I would try this. If
anyone is interested in coming to work with me and wants to try this
they are more than welcome.
>
> Anyway, good luck with your shed project. It sounds like it's going to
come out very cute.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at
http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: carlsondanjames@...
> Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 10:14:55 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Shrinkage?
>
>
>
>
>
> First off I would like to say 'You guys/gals are awesome!!'. I love
like minded people. Everyone I talk to about papercrete looks at me like
I have two heads.
>
> My first papercrete project will be a shed in the backyard. Something
that looks like a small cottage with a 3' front porch, front door with
windows on either side.
>
> I was thinking 12' X 10' with 8' walls, 8' double doors in the side.
Foundation of cement block 12" below and 12 above grade. Framing would
consist of rough cut lumber, 4x4 posts for the corners plus frame work
for the doors and windows, topped with 2x4.
>
> I am now thinking that shrinkage is going to be a problem and the
framework will have to go and make the walls 10" wide and load bearing.
>
> The roof is also bugging me because I want it made of papercrete as
well but I need some suggestions on how to make that work.
>
> My paper material will be box cardboard, recipe will be barrel filled
with pre-soaked cardboard, 1/2 bag of cement, filler ? (don' know yet)
probably sand.
>
> My mixer is going to be a 45 gallon plastic barrel with a 3" waste
outlet that they use in campers, the mixer is going to be a 1/4 hp
electric motor with a pulley connected via a belt to a 3 1/2' metal
shaft with mixing blades on it.
>
> In a 10" thick wall what is the width shrinkage? Does it shrink in the
length?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
>





--
"If you give yourself fully to this moment the next moment will turn out just right."

- Sequoyah Trueblood




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Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
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[papercreters] Judith's Box was/Shrinkage?



Every time I see this subject I am reminded of the Seinfeld show where shrinkage was a real problem for George.   :-D

Just looked at your blog again, that roof is looking really nice. The hand print texture is something special and definitely appropriate for where you are. I enjoy working with drained slurry like that, splat and pat. It reminds me of pottery clay. I'll be doing some of that on my top pent tomorrow morning. The inside of my dome has several panels with paw prints that add interest, and a few with texture from dumping the pc hard enough to stir the sand in the bottom of the mold.

The new one is great, perfect little box sitting there.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.

On 8/5/2010 4:19 PM, JUDITH WILLIAMS wrote:
I have 2 small buildings I'm working on simultaneously. The one with the roof partially done is what we started in Sept. The other one, which is on the blog is one I started in April. Just working weekends with a little help it took 120 hours to get the walls up. When I finish the roof on bldg #1 I will start the one on #2. But first I have to get the vigas peeled. If all goes according to plan they will both have roofs and floors by the end of fall.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith






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Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
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__,_._,___

RE: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?



I have 2 small buildings I'm working on simultaneously. The one with the roof partially done is what we started in Sept. The other one, which is on the blog is one I started in April. Just working weekends with a little help it took 120 hours to get the walls up. When I finish the roof on bldg #1 I will start the one on #2. But first I have to get the vigas peeled. If all goes according to plan they will both have roofs and floors by the end of fall.

Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith





To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: criswells.ok@sbcglobal.net
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 18:51:55 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Shrinkage?

 

Judith, is the building on your blog, the same one that was started at
the Abiquiu Papercrete Gathering?

BTB

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS
<williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> I have had problems with shrinkage of papercrete away from wood. I did
an 11' slip form wall between 2 large posts, 12" wide. 2 years later I
can see that it has really shrunk a lot. This wall has shrunk in about
4" from the vertical logs that serve as posts. Also about 2" on either
side. I suppose that if I were to finish this wall (the property has
been sold and its future is uncertain) I could fill in the gaps with
more pc or some foam insulation.
>
> This is why with the newest projects I have used forms that allow the
papercrete to flow around the entire perimeter of the building
uninterrupted. I have left a 4' opening for a door (to be widened later
after all shrinkage is done) but was sure to make the courses under and
over the door as strong as could be. So far I've seen only small
inconsequential cracks around the top corners of doors in the first
building I did this way. I have made some improvements to the second
building and see no cracks.
>
> I use a mix of soaked cardboard, about 3) 55 gallon drums per 200
gallon load to which I add 1/2 bag of cement. I also have access to
pumice and add about 15 large shovels full. I believe this does a lot to
increase mineral content and minimize shrinkage. I have used sand in the
past but not any more. It seemed to sink to the bottom of the mixer no
matter what I did. Now if I don't have any pumice I just use the
cardboard and cement. The more cement the less shrinkage. If you are
slip forming then weight of the cured product isn't as important. When I
first started making blocks I used a recipe that called for 2 bags of
cement. Now I am using those blocks in my slip formed walls and can't
believe how heavy they are.
>
> I am now about 2/3 done with my roof on the first building. I put up
vigas about 30" apart and tacked a double layer of chicken wire over
them and down the sides a little bit. I pour the slurry on top and
surprisingly enough it doesn't fall through. I am careful to continue
the roof papercrete so it flows right into the walls. I want this to me
as monolithic as possible. What this building reminds me of is an upside
down styrofoam cooler. I have embedded some old blocks in the roof to
use them up and take up some space (less slurry to mix and lift to the
roof). So far it's coming out very well.
>
> Your mixer sounds like a good one. Spaceman and I have been discussing
using a small stationary mixer and somehow putting it right on top of
the wall forms. That way you could mix up the slurry, empty it right
into the form then move the mixer along as you go. If I had some
mechanical ability and knowledge of tools etc I would try this. If
anyone is interested in coming to work with me and wants to try this
they are more than welcome.
>
> Anyway, good luck with your shed project. It sounds like it's going to
come out very cute.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at
http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: carlsondanjames@...
> Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 10:14:55 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Shrinkage?
>
>
>
>
>
> First off I would like to say 'You guys/gals are awesome!!'. I love
like minded people. Everyone I talk to about papercrete looks at me like
I have two heads.
>
> My first papercrete project will be a shed in the backyard. Something
that looks like a small cottage with a 3' front porch, front door with
windows on either side.
>
> I was thinking 12' X 10' with 8' walls, 8' double doors in the side.
Foundation of cement block 12" below and 12 above grade. Framing would
consist of rough cut lumber, 4x4 posts for the corners plus frame work
for the doors and windows, topped with 2x4.
>
> I am now thinking that shrinkage is going to be a problem and the
framework will have to go and make the walls 10" wide and load bearing.
>
> The roof is also bugging me because I want it made of papercrete as
well but I need some suggestions on how to make that work.
>
> My paper material will be box cardboard, recipe will be barrel filled
with pre-soaked cardboard, 1/2 bag of cement, filler ? (don' know yet)
probably sand.
>
> My mixer is going to be a 45 gallon plastic barrel with a 3" waste
outlet that they use in campers, the mixer is going to be a 1/4 hp
electric motor with a pulley connected via a belt to a 3 1/2' metal
shaft with mixing blades on it.
>
> In a 10" thick wall what is the width shrinkage? Does it shrink in the
length?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
>




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Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
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