The best method I have found to cut of the spines of magazines, catalogs, or old books is to use a table saw with a table saw sled.
A table saw sled makes cutting the spines off quick, easy, and safe to do.
Building your own sled is a simple task. There are numerous designs that are all basically the same concept. Many youtube videos exist on the topic. Here is one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69t6MFCUobw
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
> The glossy magazines do not work as well but it's OK to add a few to a mix made with newspaper or cardboard. You have to tear them apart. The spine does not mulch so either don't put it in or fish it out of the slurry. I don't have an answer on the blades but from my experience it's not the sharpness of the blade that matters. It just sort of tears the paper up. You want to keep the cellulose fibers as long as possible. But in my opinion there is a lot of room for deviation and experimentation with papercrete.
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Monday, December 3, 2012
[papercreters] Re: Glossy magazines in Papercrete?
Re: [papercreters] Re: Reciprocal roof
Greetings,
Unfortunately, the link does not have southern yellow pine on it. But,
I did find a reference that said it was one of the strongest woods, if
not the strongest to use for beams and supports. Which sounds good to me.
I am in the hot humid south. Yes, vapor barriers go on the outside.
And yes, the tar paper has been dropped. We have dropped the deck as
well, the papercrete will sit on chicken wire, then be covered with
petrified hessian. The inside will be stuccoed with papercrete, then
painted with a natural breathable paint, like the walls. This way, and
water that gets in there, can come out. Mold and mildew are huge
problems in this area. I did not want to have to do stuccoing, but the
cost of the deck is a strong incentive to do away with it.
We hope to put the poles up on the roof on January 19th, if anyone would
like to join us. Camping available, no children and pets please.
Bright Blessings,
Garth & Kim Travis
www.TheRoseColoredForest.com
Bedias, Texas
On 12/3/2012 9:35 AM, JayH wrote:
> I'm not confident I know what is standard construction practice in your
> area and in your climate.
>
> In your area, where do contractors typically put a vapor barrier when
> they build with standard stick construction? Whatever is standard
> practice in your area in your climate is what you should look to for
> guidance as far as where is best to place a vapor barrier in your roof.
>
> You may be in a warmer more humid climate that calls for a vapor barrier
> to be placed on the outside of the wall instead of on the inside of the
> wall which is standard in colder climates. I'm simply not certain.
>
> If contractors in your area typically place a vapor barrier on the
> exterior side of the insulation in your area, then you would be wise to
> follow that lead. In fact, you my want to abandon using tar paper all
> together and use a fully sealed plastic vapor barrier.
>
> Following are a couple of good reads on the subject:
>
> Note the discussion of vapor barrier placement as it pertains to
> geographical climate:
> http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/wall%20insulation%20technology.pdf
>
> http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/weather%20resistive.pdf
>
> While I realize you won't be using standard stick framing construction
> techniques, the scientific research Oak Ridge has conducted concerning
> vapor retarders will still apply to a papercrete wall, or a papercrete
> insulated roof.
>
> Here is a pretty good read concerning the strength of various wood species:
> http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_05.pdf
>
> I have a dream that one day, we will have a table like that for various
> different mix ratios of papercrete. That will allow engineers to specify
> a specific mix for different specific purposes in a structure. When that
> data becomes available, keeping papercrete out of the building codes
> will be impossible, and papercrete mixers may quickly become standard
> construction equipment for every commercial contractor.
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:papercreters%40yahoogroups.com>, Garth & Kim Travis <gartht@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Greetings,
> >
> > How about if we remove the tar paper as we add the papercrete, so the
> > papercrete is not sealed from two directions? This worried me as well.
> >
> > The forty foot diameter is the inside span. The five foot overhang is
> > outside the henge. I know it is a large span, that is a concern.
> > Sizing the poles for this span is a challenge. However, I so far have
> > not found any tables to help. And, I am not sure what math I need to do.
> >
> > We are planning on aircraft cable into the concrete foundation. It is
> > standard on the way we build. I know what wind can do, we have been
> > here 20 years and seen lots of disasters. We have built a few buildings
> > that have come through 100mph winds that gusted to 130mph.
> >
> > Bright Blessings,
> > Garth & Kim Travis
> > www.TheRoseColoredForest.com
> > Bedias, Texas
> >
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2634/5934 - Release Date: 12/03/12
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[papercreters] Re: Glossy magazines in Papercrete?
Glossy magazines can produce a very surperior papercrete, but expect more difficulty working with them than with newspaper or cardboard.
Glossy paper contains a high ratio of kaolin clay. We talk a lot on this group about the value of adding mineral content such as clay into papercrete mix. Using glossy paper is one method of increasing the clay content in a mix.
Glossy paper tends to be more difficult to break down in a mixer. My experience has been that it is easiest to break down if you pre-soak the paper (several hours or overnight) before attempting to mix it. When you do mix it, be prepared to run the mixer for a longer period of time than with regular newspaper. It simply takes longer to break down.
Also, be prepared for glossy paper papercrete to take longer to dry, as is the case with most forms of papercrete that have clay added to them.
Once you get past the difficulties of working with glossy paper, you will find that it can produce some of the strongest and most durable papercrete after it is completely dry.
Also, glossy paper can make excellent plaster.
Another idea that may or may not be practical. Using HOT WATER in your mixer speeds the process of breaking down glossy paper. Whether it is worth the high energy cost of heating hundreds of gallons of water for each batch of papercrete is rather dubious. If you were planning on building a large hydronic solar collector anyway to heat the house, then perhaps building the array before starting construction might make sense so you could use it to heat water for mixing papercrete. That would be pretty awesome.
DO NOT CONFUSE WAXY PAPER WITH GLOSSY PAPER. Wax coated paper is not recommended for use in papercrete. Not sure if you know what you have? Place a few drops of water on the surface of the paper and let it sit for a few minutes. Waxy paper will still have beads of water on the surface when you check it minutes later. Glossy paper will allow the water to slowly soak into it. The same test works well if you think you may have waxy cardboard too, which is also very common.
The best use for waxy paper and waxy cardboard is as fuel. It doesn't even break down in compost very well.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Alan <rustaholic777@...> wrote:
>
> I am still in the planning stages and I hope to get my tow mixer built next Summer but I am collecting cardboard and paper now.
> I am just wondering if the glossy catalogs and magazines will work as good as newspaper and cardboard.
>
> How about cutting a 24" S-shaped blade out of a 24" buzz saw blade?
> Is there a template available anywhere?
>
> Alan in Michigan
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[papercreters] Re: Reciprocal roof
I'm not confident I know what is standard construction practice in your area and in your climate.
In your area, where do contractors typically put a vapor barrier when they build with standard stick construction? Whatever is standard practice in your area in your climate is what you should look to for guidance as far as where is best to place a vapor barrier in your roof.
You may be in a warmer more humid climate that calls for a vapor barrier to be placed on the outside of the wall instead of on the inside of the wall which is standard in colder climates. I'm simply not certain.
If contractors in your area typically place a vapor barrier on the exterior side of the insulation in your area, then you would be wise to follow that lead. In fact, you my want to abandon using tar paper all together and use a fully sealed plastic vapor barrier.
Following are a couple of good reads on the subject:
Note the discussion of vapor barrier placement as it pertains to geographical climate:
http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/wall%20insulation%20technology.pdf
http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/weather%20resistive.pdf
While I realize you won't be using standard stick framing construction techniques, the scientific research Oak Ridge has conducted concerning vapor retarders will still apply to a papercrete wall, or a papercrete insulated roof.
Here is a pretty good read concerning the strength of various wood species:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_05.pdf
I have a dream that one day, we will have a table like that for various different mix ratios of papercrete. That will allow engineers to specify a specific mix for different specific purposes in a structure. When that data becomes available, keeping papercrete out of the building codes will be impossible, and papercrete mixers may quickly become standard construction equipment for every commercial contractor.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Garth & Kim Travis <gartht@...> wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> How about if we remove the tar paper as we add the papercrete, so the
> papercrete is not sealed from two directions? This worried me as well.
>
> The forty foot diameter is the inside span. The five foot overhang is
> outside the henge. I know it is a large span, that is a concern.
> Sizing the poles for this span is a challenge. However, I so far have
> not found any tables to help. And, I am not sure what math I need to do.
>
> We are planning on aircraft cable into the concrete foundation. It is
> standard on the way we build. I know what wind can do, we have been
> here 20 years and seen lots of disasters. We have built a few buildings
> that have come through 100mph winds that gusted to 130mph.
>
> Bright Blessings,
> Garth & Kim Travis
> www.TheRoseColoredForest.com
> Bedias, Texas
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com
papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete in the cold North?
Thanks, Ron. Like I wrote in my other post to Tasha I won't do quite that mix but it is great to hear how that worked for you? I want to do wall panels on the ground then stand them up so thickness will depend on how big of a panel I can get from a 250 gallon tow mixer. My sweet wife thinks I have too much paper and cardboard out back but with a mixer that big I probably only have enough for three loads now. With all of the huge pallets I have here I am considering just making a pallet frame then attaching papercrete panels to the frame. I am looking forward to next Summer when I can just pour one panel and see how it turns out. Alan in Michigan --- On Mon, 12/3/12, Ron <ronerichter@yahoo.com> wrote:
|
__._,_.___
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
__,_._,___
Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete in the cold North?
Tasha, I believe you have your thinker in reverse. A 1:2 ratio for portland to paper means one part Portland to two parts paper. That would be a lot cheaper to do than my one to one mix. The most I would do is 92 pounds of Portland to around 125 pounds of paper. Alan in Michigan --- On Mon, 12/3/12, Tasha <tashatesla@gmail.com> wrote:
|
__._,_.___
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
__,_._,___
Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete in the cold North?
A 1:2 ratio for portland to paper?
Wouldn't that make for some expensive papercrete?
TASHA
On 12/2/2012 10:14P, Ron wrote:
Hi Alan, You probably have a bit more moist environment than that in Montana, but I did just that. In 2008 I started a shed 8'X16' to house a three wheeler and trailer. I was only able to work on it summers and so it sat through the winter. I did cover it for some of the time but nothing fancy, a blue tarp that never made it through the winter. My mix was not what you mentioned, rather it was 1:2 portland to paper. I was adding sand at the beginning but soon was using just paper and portland. I never got it done because of other pressing matters. In December 2011 I had to remove it from where it was because I had put it right in the path where an 18 wheeler needed to go around one of my buildings. So it sat in the elements for 4 years and was perfectly fine when I tore it apart. I saved all that I had done because I am planning a "real" building which will have 12" thick walls. I'll be able to bury all the pieces I salvaged from my initial attempt in the walls of the new structure because the shed only had 8" walls. Personally, I don't think you'll be wasting your time. Ron --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Alan <rustaholic777@...> wrote:Next question Is there anyone here that has done a straight equal amount of paper and Portland in water and built anything to set outside here in the cold sometimes very wet North? I would love to know that if I build the tow mixer and put up a papercrete shed it will last a good while. It would be a real waste to make the tow mixer just to do some samples that fail. If none of you can assure me it will work I do suppose I could do a five gallon bucket test and make a block to set outside for a year or so. I have one of those drill powered "paint" stirrers to mix up Quick Crete in five gallon buckets if only I can find it now. Alan in Northern Lower Michigan------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
__._,_.___
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
__,_._,___
