Monday, September 10, 2012

Re: [papercreters] foamed cement / concrete threatens to make papercrete obsolete!...



Many of these "new and amazing" building techniques fail to live up to their hype and most are tailored to help commercial builders do thing faster and thus make a bigger profit. Many people who do papercrete do so because they have limited financial resources and or dont' want to go into debt. There is also a satisfaction that comes with using one's own hands and sweat to make a useful product. The use of waste paper and cardboard also helps conserve the planets resources and the manufacturing of cement creates a tremendous amount of greenhouse gases.
If we could all slow down a bit instead of jumping on every "newer and faster is better" bandwagon our society would be the better for it.    

--- On Sun, 9/9/12, germeten <germeten@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: germeten <germeten@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] foamed cement / concrete threatens to make papercrete obsolete!...
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 9, 2012, 1:37 PM

 
Just google it, or search on Youtube. Why spend time collecting, hydrating and chewing up cardboard (which has weight) when you can just blow bubbles into cement? You need a mixer, a compressor, a hose/screen (to blow bubbles through) and the surfactant.

Actually, papercrete will always have a place; it's infinitely more sculptable than foam, and probably stronger, but for blocks and panels, foam is the way.



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Sunday, September 9, 2012

[papercreters] foamed cement / concrete threatens to make papercrete obsolete!...

Just google it, or search on Youtube. Why spend time collecting, hydrating and chewing up cardboard (which has weight) when you can just blow bubbles into cement? You need a mixer, a compressor, a hose/screen (to blow bubbles through) and the surfactant.

Actually, papercrete will always have a place; it's infinitely more sculptable than foam, and probably stronger, but for blocks and panels, foam is the way.



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Re: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry

The strawbale people sometimes float the bales in a clay slurry to
fireproof them . Might be worth a try to see if it would work with
cardboard, Might need to rough them up a bit and dip them quickly and
possibly more than once letting them dry in between coats to keep from
getting them too wet.

On 9/9/12, Daniel_ranly <daniel_ranly@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for all the input. Im in the process of building my mixer now so i
> will be trying it out soon. Id seen something where someone put two baffles
> in on opposite sides of the tank, i think that makes a lot of sense.
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note™, an AT&T LTE smartphone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
> From: liberty1_27606 <liberty1@gmail.com>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> CC: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
>
>
>
> Daniel,
>
> Thoughts from reading and watching videos (no actual experience).
>
> 1. Some people recommend soaking cardboard overnight before mixing.
>
> 2. Some people have made mixer blades that are curved like a letter S (but
> not that extreme)so that the paper will slid off the blade rather than form
> jams.
>
> 3. One papercreter reversed his mixer occasionally to get the jams off the
> blade (you probably only have to back up about a yard to get the paper off).
>
> (I would think that you would not have to do both 2 and 3. Pick your
> favorite.)
>
> Bobby
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "daniel_ranly" <daniel_ranly@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> So I've been experimenting with papercrete for a while now and am in the
>> process of building a pull behind mixer for large batches. As it turns out
>> I have access to a lot of cardboard boxes that I'd like to utilize. Ive
>> made some in small batches that came out ok using drill and stucco
>> attachment. Will the McCain mixer do a better job pulping cardboard? Whats
>> you general thoughts on using purely cardboard? BTW I'm new here so I look
>> forward to learning from y'all thanks, Todd.
>>
>
>
>
>
> TODAY(Beta) • Powered by Yahoo!
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> Get Yahoo Search App! • Privacy Policy
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>
>


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RE: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry



Thanks for all the input. Im in the process of building my mixer now so i will be trying it out soon. Id seen something where someone put two baffles in on opposite sides of the tank, i think that makes a lot of sense.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note™, an AT&T LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
From: liberty1_27606 <liberty1@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
CC: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry


 



Daniel,

Thoughts from reading and watching videos (no actual experience).

1. Some people recommend soaking cardboard overnight before mixing.

2. Some people have made mixer blades that are curved like a letter S (but not that extreme)so that the paper will slid off the blade rather than form jams.

3. One papercreter reversed his mixer occasionally to get the jams off the blade (you probably only have to back up about a yard to get the paper off).

(I would think that you would not have to do both 2 and 3. Pick your favorite.)

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "daniel_ranly" <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
> So I've been experimenting with papercrete for a while now and am in the process of building a pull behind mixer for large batches. As it turns out I have access to a lot of cardboard boxes that I'd like to utilize. Ive made some in small batches that came out ok using drill and stucco attachment. Will the McCain mixer do a better job pulping cardboard? Whats you general thoughts on using purely cardboard? BTW I'm new here so I look forward to learning from y'all thanks, Todd.
>



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[papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry

Daniel,

Thoughts from reading and watching videos (no actual experience).

1. Some people recommend soaking cardboard overnight before mixing.

2. Some people have made mixer blades that are curved like a letter S (but not that extreme)so that the paper will slid off the blade rather than form jams.

3. One papercreter reversed his mixer occasionally to get the jams off the blade (you probably only have to back up about a yard to get the paper off).

(I would think that you would not have to do both 2 and 3. Pick your favorite.)

Bobby

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "daniel_ranly" <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
> So I've been experimenting with papercrete for a while now and am in the process of building a pull behind mixer for large batches. As it turns out I have access to a lot of cardboard boxes that I'd like to utilize. Ive made some in small batches that came out ok using drill and stucco attachment. Will the McCain mixer do a better job pulping cardboard? Whats you general thoughts on using purely cardboard? BTW I'm new here so I look forward to learning from y'all thanks, Todd.
>




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Saturday, September 8, 2012

Re: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry



In this video starting at 4:10 you can see the post blade.
 
Alan

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, Alan <rustaholic777@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Alan <rustaholic777@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 8, 2012, 4:14 PM



The one I have seen several times wasn't really a fence post as used here.
It looked more like what they put up next to a mail box to put a smaller newspaper box on.
I also believe the road signs here have that type of post.
Alan

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, tr <tt10_99@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: tr <tt10_99@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 8, 2012, 11:38 AM

not new to the group just never posted before... Im interested in the steel fence post as a blade or any heavy duty blade ... any pictures would be great... I have been stockpileing cardboard and newspaper for a while now waiting until i can get time to try papercreate...

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Donald Miller <donald1miller@...> wrote:
>
> Any thicker piece of metal should work for the blade. I've seen a picture of one of Mike McCain's
>  mixers with a steel fence post used as a blade. Perhaps the way I ended up doing the mix was part of the reason the differential failed. I have a 160 gallon metal stock tank and I fill it to the top and mound it with the soaked cardboard and then fill it to the top with water. I pull it with a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel and it makes it grunt to to get it started as the weight of the cardboard piled on top of the blade is substantial. One advantage of doing it this way is that I don't get a lot of slopping and it makes a mix of a good consistency, not real wet and not so dry that it won't come out of the mixer well. I do end up pushing a lot of the mix out of the "elephant trunk" opening though but I like the mix to be not so runny and watery as it packs in the forms better and doesn't shrink so much.
>  
>  As far as packing the mix in the blocks, I poke it down with a flat bladed shovel and then after I get all the forms filled and the mixer washed out I go back and poke it down again and level them off. By this time much of the water will have run out and the resulting blocks have good form and don't shrink much. I stake down a large plastic tarp on the ground and place my forms on that which makes a much cleaner working environment and the water drains off the plastic well as the ground where I have it on has a little slope to it. Not a lot, just enough to get the water to run off. You end up with a mucky mess if you don't have the plastic under the forms. At least here where I live as the soil is a fine clay which is like cement when it is dry but very gooey like all clay when it is wet.
> I havent tried putting borax in the mix, I suppose it would work. The blocks will definitely burn, a slow smolder, but then so will a 2 X 4 or a piece of plywood only they will burst into flame whereas the cardboard blocks won't. I haven't experimented with spraying the stacked blocks with a boric acid mixture so I don't know how effective that would be either. I have some pictures of my mixer and a couple of modifications to the design that work well for the cardboard and I'll see if I can find them and post them.
> The pictures that I found were taken before I started putting plastic under them but it shows the basic way I do the blocks and also the "elephant trunk" setup. It is a piece of inner tube and there is a hinged piece of plywood that holds the folded trunk in place while you are mixing. It leaks a little but then the whole tank leaks some anyway so it's not enough to be an issue. I couldn't find the pictures I was looking for of the mods I had done to the mixer but I'll keep looking for them and post them when I find them. Hope this helps some.
> --- On Fri, 9/7/12, Daniel Ranly <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Daniel Ranly <daniel_ranly@...>
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, September 7, 2012, 8:55 PM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> That's very encouraging to hear. As far as your differential it must have been in bad shape to begin with as I would believe the abuse put on it in papercrete making would be very minimal compared to real world apps. Perhaps a bad seal? Anyways I'd like to hear more about your cardboard blocks. Really no cement? How much packing in the forms are you talkIng about? What blade did you emPloy on your mixer? I. Know this is a lot of questions but I'm so new at this
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Donald Miller <donald1miller@...>;
> To: <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>;
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> Sent: Sat, Sep 8, 2012 3:13:42 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Cardboard, in MHO, works great. I quit putting in cement and make blocks of cardboard only. I believe there is quite a bit of glue in it that makes for a good binder. I find that the blocks are sturdier than the ones I put cement and clay/sand/gravel. If you pack the cardboard slurry in your forms they will not shrink a lot and they dry light and very easy to handle and I'm sure very good insulation. I will need to put in something for fire retardancy. The straw bale people spray the bales with a boric acid mixture. I will try that in a stacked and mortared wall. Who knows?
>  
>  Cardboard requires soaking as it is a lot tougher to break down than paper. The McCain tow mixer works great. My differential gave out on mine but I made a lot of blocks before it did. I think it was pretty well worn out to begin with. I am in the process of putting another differential in it so we'll see. I also found that the lawnmower blade I started with is not strong enough for cardboard so I made one out of 1 and 1/2 inch by 3/16 angle and ground a cutting edge on it.
> --- On Fri, 9/7/12, daniel_ranly <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: daniel_ranly <daniel_ranly@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, September 7, 2012, 4:14 PM
>
>
>
>  
>
> So I've been experimenting with papercrete for a while now and am in the process of building a pull behind mixer for large batches. As it turns out I have access to a lot of cardboard boxes that I'd like to utilize. Ive made some in small batches that came out ok using drill and stucco attachment. Will the McCain mixer do a better job pulping cardboard? Whats you general thoughts on using purely cardboard? BTW I'm new here so I look forward to learning from y'all thanks, Todd.
>




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Re: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry



The one I have seen several times wasn't really a fence post as used here.
It looked more like what they put up next to a mail box to put a smaller newspaper box on.
I also believe the road signs here have that type of post.
Alan

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, tr <tt10_99@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: tr <tt10_99@yahoo.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Pure cardboard slurry
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 8, 2012, 11:38 AM

not new to the group just never posted before... Im interested in the steel fence post as a blade or any heavy duty blade ... any pictures would be great... I have been stockpileing cardboard and newspaper for a while now waiting until i can get time to try papercreate...

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Donald Miller <donald1miller@...> wrote:
>
> Any thicker piece of metal should work for the blade. I've seen a picture of one of Mike McCain's
>  mixers with a steel fence post used as a blade. Perhaps the way I ended up doing the mix was part of the reason the differential failed. I have a 160 gallon metal stock tank and I fill it to the top and mound it with the soaked cardboard and then fill it to the top with water. I pull it with a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel and it makes it grunt to to get it started as the weight of the cardboard piled on top of the blade is substantial. One advantage of doing it this way is that I don't get a lot of slopping and it makes a mix of a good consistency, not real wet and not so dry that it won't come out of the mixer well. I do end up pushing a lot of the mix out of the "elephant trunk" opening though but I like the mix to be not so runny and watery as it packs in the forms better and doesn't shrink so much.
>  
>  As far as packing the mix in the blocks, I poke it down with a flat bladed shovel and then after I get all the forms filled and the mixer washed out I go back and poke it down again and level them off. By this time much of the water will have run out and the resulting blocks have good form and don't shrink much. I stake down a large plastic tarp on the ground and place my forms on that which makes a much cleaner working environment and the water drains off the plastic well as the ground where I have it on has a little slope to it. Not a lot, just enough to get the water to run off. You end up with a mucky mess if you don't have the plastic under the forms. At least here where I live as the soil is a fine clay which is like cement when it is dry but very gooey like all clay when it is wet.
> I havent tried putting borax in the mix, I suppose it would work. The blocks will definitely burn, a slow smolder, but then so will a 2 X 4 or a piece of plywood only they will burst into flame whereas the cardboard blocks won't. I haven't experimented with spraying the stacked blocks with a boric acid mixture so I don't know how effective that would be either. I have some pictures of my mixer and a couple of modifications to the design that work well for the cardboard and I'll see if I can find them and post them.
> The pictures that I found were taken before I started putting plastic under them but it shows the basic way I do the blocks and also the "elephant trunk" setup. It is a piece of inner tube and there is a hinged piece of plywood that holds the folded trunk in place while you are mixing. It leaks a little but then the whole tank leaks some anyway so it's not enough to be an issue. I couldn't find the pictures I was looking for of the mods I had done to the mixer but I'll keep looking for them and post them when I find them. Hope this helps some.
> --- On Fri, 9/7/12, Daniel Ranly <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Daniel Ranly <daniel_ranly@...>
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, September 7, 2012, 8:55 PM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> That's very encouraging to hear. As far as your differential it must have been in bad shape to begin with as I would believe the abuse put on it in papercrete making would be very minimal compared to real world apps. Perhaps a bad seal? Anyways I'd like to hear more about your cardboard blocks. Really no cement? How much packing in the forms are you talkIng about? What blade did you emPloy on your mixer? I. Know this is a lot of questions but I'm so new at this
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Donald Miller <donald1miller@...>;
> To: <papercreters@yahoogroups.com>;
> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> Sent: Sat, Sep 8, 2012 3:13:42 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Cardboard, in MHO, works great. I quit putting in cement and make blocks of cardboard only. I believe there is quite a bit of glue in it that makes for a good binder. I find that the blocks are sturdier than the ones I put cement and clay/sand/gravel. If you pack the cardboard slurry in your forms they will not shrink a lot and they dry light and very easy to handle and I'm sure very good insulation. I will need to put in something for fire retardancy. The straw bale people spray the bales with a boric acid mixture. I will try that in a stacked and mortared wall. Who knows?
>  
>  Cardboard requires soaking as it is a lot tougher to break down than paper. The McCain tow mixer works great. My differential gave out on mine but I made a lot of blocks before it did. I think it was pretty well worn out to begin with. I am in the process of putting another differential in it so we'll see. I also found that the lawnmower blade I started with is not strong enough for cardboard so I made one out of 1 and 1/2 inch by 3/16 angle and ground a cutting edge on it.
> --- On Fri, 9/7/12, daniel_ranly <daniel_ranly@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: daniel_ranly <daniel_ranly@...>
> Subject: [papercreters] Pure cardboard slurry
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, September 7, 2012, 4:14 PM
>
>
>
>  
>
> So I've been experimenting with papercrete for a while now and am in the process of building a pull behind mixer for large batches. As it turns out I have access to a lot of cardboard boxes that I'd like to utilize. Ive made some in small batches that came out ok using drill and stucco attachment. Will the McCain mixer do a better job pulping cardboard? Whats you general thoughts on using purely cardboard? BTW I'm new here so I look forward to learning from y'all thanks, Todd.
>




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