Alan how far into Michigan are u.  I have a very solid partially constructed mixer with all the parts a ½ hr east of port huron which I don’t need.

 

Nick

 

From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spaceman
Sent: August-06-11 1:32 AM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction

 

 

The stock tanks are thin and tend to crack and leak from metal fatigue due to turbulence in the papercrete, and road bounce. The seam around the bottom will separate from the side, too. The plywood stiffens it a lot, especially if the tank is glued to the plywood. The other half of the plywood makes a nice lid.

If your tank is fairly thick with welded ends then flexing might not be a problem.

The yoke where the universal connects is usually larger than the body of the differential and removing it is fairly involved. To fit plywood over mine I had to oversize the hole and then fill in with bondo. Also, the case had ribs on the outside that required matching slots in the plywood and tank bottom, hard to get a tight fit. The case of my differential seems to be cast iron, which is hard to weld to. If you could do it, you would eliminate that potential leak. It sounds like you have what you need to make a good heavy duty mixer.

spaceman

All opinions expressed or implied

are subject to change without notice

upon receipt of new information.

On 8/5/2011 8:06 PM, Alan wrote:

Greetings, Please tell me the reason for the plywood layer under the tank. Is it because the stock tanks are so thin?   Here is what I am thinking.   I have a 1988 Ford F-150 pickup I am getting ready to scrap out. There is my rear axle.   I have a heavy steel 500 gallon round fuel oil tank. I will cut it in half and have two 250 gallon tanks. I will just need to build a cover. I could just cut the bottom out of the second tank.   I have a very old frame from a boat trailer. I am seeing that as a perfect frame to weld to the axle and set the tank on.   Somewhere around here I have several NOS 24" mower blades.   What about getting very radical and cutting the tank neatly to fit the diff. then welding it?     Alan in Michigan

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RE: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

Where in Canada are u?

 

Nick

 

From: papercreters@yahoogroups.com [mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mack M
Sent: August-06-11 12:38 PM
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

 

 

yeahyeahyeah LOL,

I am in Canada right now, burning on the edge of my seat....

So is anybody using PC for load bearing walls?? Anybody have experience with two story structures with pc?

By the way, GREAT work, Judith, thank you for your blog, I just glanced through it but will make this my first step "manual".

Have a great weekend everyone!
Mack

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> That's interesting - where you live. I lived on the Goldmine road for about 8 years. I miss it down there. If you ever want to take a drive up here let me know. And I'd be happy to help when you get going on your project.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: kwc@...
> Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 04:51:06 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Judith:
>
>
>
> Starting reading backwards through your blog and admiring photos.
>
>
>
> You're not too far from me. I'm between Cerrillos and Madrid and have a few times spent a week in June at Ghost Ranch with my regional Quaker Meeting.
>
>
>
> Got as far in your blog as to where you were talking to the Washington person and mentioned Nolan (Scheid, by the way). And then your server quit letting me see pages. So don't know if you used load-supporting walls or not.
>
>
>
> But do know your work is really beautiful. You're doing a nice job.
>
>
>
> And that photo of you in the mixer? Looks like you're driving some new secret weapon the Army dreamed up.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> ken
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > My walls are a foot thick, slip formed with blocks embedded. There are pics on my blog.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> >
>
> > More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: kwc@
>
> > Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 20:52:30 +0000
>
> > Subject: [papercreters] Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Feel free to point me to previous posts, files, etc.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Is it possible to pour foot-thick load-bearing walls of papercrete - claycrete - fidobe type mixes?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >
>
> > ken
>
> >
>

__._,_.___

Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
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__,_._,___

[papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

yeahyeahyeah LOL,

I am in Canada right now, burning on the edge of my seat....

So is anybody using PC for load bearing walls?? Anybody have experience with two story structures with pc?

By the way, GREAT work, Judith, thank you for your blog, I just glanced through it but will make this my first step "manual".

Have a great weekend everyone!
Mack

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> That's interesting - where you live. I lived on the Goldmine road for about 8 years. I miss it down there. If you ever want to take a drive up here let me know. And I'd be happy to help when you get going on your project.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: kwc@...
> Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 04:51:06 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Judith:
>
>
>
> Starting reading backwards through your blog and admiring photos.
>
>
>
> You're not too far from me. I'm between Cerrillos and Madrid and have a few times spent a week in June at Ghost Ranch with my regional Quaker Meeting.
>
>
>
> Got as far in your blog as to where you were talking to the Washington person and mentioned Nolan (Scheid, by the way). And then your server quit letting me see pages. So don't know if you used load-supporting walls or not.
>
>
>
> But do know your work is really beautiful. You're doing a nice job.
>
>
>
> And that photo of you in the mixer? Looks like you're driving some new secret weapon the Army dreamed up.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> ken
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > My walls are a foot thick, slip formed with blocks embedded. There are pics on my blog.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> >
>
> > More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: kwc@
>
> > Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 20:52:30 +0000
>
> > Subject: [papercreters] Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Feel free to point me to previous posts, files, etc.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Is it possible to pour foot-thick load-bearing walls of papercrete - claycrete - fidobe type mixes?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >
>
> > ken
>
> >
>

------------------------------------

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That's interesting - where you live. I lived on the Goldmine road for about 8 years. I miss it down there. If you ever want to take a drive up here let me know. And I'd be happy to help when you get going on your project.



Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog

More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith

---

To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
From: kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 04:51:06 +0000
Subject: [papercreters] Re: Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls

 

Hi Judith:

Starting reading backwards through your blog and admiring photos.

You're not too far from me. I'm between Cerrillos and Madrid and have a few times spent a week in June at Ghost Ranch with my regional Quaker Meeting.

Got as far in your blog as to where you were talking to the Washington person and mentioned Nolan (Scheid, by the way). And then your server quit letting me see pages. So don't know if you used load-supporting walls or not.

But do know your work is really beautiful. You're doing a nice job.

And that photo of you in the mixer? Looks like you're driving some new secret weapon the Army dreamed up.

Best,
ken

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, JUDITH WILLIAMS <williams_judith@...> wrote:
>
>
> My walls are a foot thick, slip formed with blocks embedded. There are pics on my blog.
>
>
>
> Follow progress on the new project at http://www.papercretebyjudith.com/blog
>
> More papercrete info at http://squidoo.com/papercretebyjudith
>
>
> To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
> From: kwc@...
> Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 20:52:30 +0000
> Subject: [papercreters] Naive Question probably --- RE: Load-bearing walls
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Feel free to point me to previous posts, files, etc.
>
>
>
> Is it possible to pour foot-thick load-bearing walls of papercrete - claycrete - fidobe type mixes?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> ken
>

__._,_.___

Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
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Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction

Thank you, I didn't think about removing the yoke. I have been a shade tree wrench monkey for most of my life and I remember removing a yoke like that before. If it is a bugger to get off then I will just do the Bondo thing I guess.   OR,,, Take a one foot square piece of 1/4" plate steel, split it down the middle and make the cuts so the two pieces fit the diff.  Then weld the two pieces back together, bolt them down and weld them to the tank. What about removing some of those fins on the diff.? I am thinking about getting the metal closer to the diff. and using JB-Weld instead of Bondo if my welding attempt fails.   I have five acres with stuff piled all over the property. I do not scrap out random pieces of metal. That old trailer frame has been laying out there 34 years.   For a fixed half of the cover I also have metal salvaged from scrap washing machines. The old top load ones. I use a saw-z-all to cut along the top on both sides and the front. Then I do the bottom and on each side near the back I cut straight down. That gives me a large U-shaped piece of metal. I lay them down on a concrete surface and stand in the center and use a foot to push each side down to the floor. Then I turn them over and again walk the bends. When I get them close to flat I take a two pound hand sledge and flatten the corners until it is all one flat piece of metal. They store easy like that until I need them.   I probably will make the opening side of the lid from plywood.   Alan in Michigan   --- On Sat, 8/6/11, Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> wrote: From: Spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net> Subject: Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, August 6, 2011, 1:31 AM The stock tanks are thin and tend to crack and leak from metal fatigue due to turbulence in the papercrete, and road bounce. The seam around the bottom will separate from the side, too. The plywood stiffens it a lot, especially if the tank is glued to the plywood. The other half of the plywood makes a nice lid. If your tank is fairly thick with welded ends then flexing might not be a problem. The yoke where the universal connects is usually larger than the body of the differential and removing it is fairly involved. To fit plywood over mine I had to oversize the hole and then fill in with bondo. Also, the case had ribs on the outside that required matching slots in the plywood and tank bottom, hard to get a tight fit. The case of my differential seems to be cast iron, which is hard to weld to. If you could do it, you would eliminate that potential leak. It sounds like you have what you need to make a good heavy duty mixer. spaceman All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information. On 8/5/2011 8:06 PM, Alan wrote: Greetings, Please tell me the reason for the plywood layer under the tank. Is it because the stock tanks are so thin?   Here is what I am thinking.   I have a 1988 Ford F-150 pickup I am getting ready to scrap out. There is my rear axle.   I have a heavy steel 500 gallon round fuel oil tank. I will cut it in half and have two 250 gallon tanks. I will just need to build a cover. I could just cut the bottom out of the second tank.   I have a very old frame from a boat trailer. I am seeing that as a perfect frame to weld to the axle and set the tank on.   Somewhere around here I have several NOS 24" mower blades.   What about getting very radical and cutting the tank neatly to fit the diff. then welding it?     Alan in Michigan   __._,_

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Any tow-behind mixer for sale in New Mexico

I have been through there a couple of times, it's a nice area.

The usual stock tank is 4' in diameter so you can flip a mixer over into even a small pickup bed, leaving the tongue hanging over the tailgate. I can turn my mixer over by myself when I'm feeling invincible (not too often lately) or with a helper. It probably weighs 500 pounds but thanks to Archimedes that isn't a problem. Hauling on a small flatbed trailer should be a breeze.

spaceman 

On 8/5/2011 10:40 PM, ken winston caine wrote:

That's what I thought, Spaceman. Thanks. These things are meant to be pulled at 5 mph or 10 tops, probably. Didn't realize the diameter was small enough, and weight low enough, that you could fit one of these in a pickup truck bed. That means I could put one on my little flatbed trailer, probably.  I'm a couple miles off the pavement between Cerrillos and Madrid, if that means anything to you. That's south of Santa Fe, northeast of Albuquerque. Off the grid.  A local scrap yard owner told me that if I can talk a neighbor or friend into letting him haul off one of their no longer living vehicles, he'll cut the rear axle and differential off and let me have it. So that's one option.  Best, ken    ------------------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Links  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/  <*> Your email settings:     Individual Email | Traditional  <*> To change settings online go to:     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/papercreters/join     (Yahoo! ID required)  <*> To change settings via email:     papercreters-digest@yahoogroups.com      papercreters-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:     papercreters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/    ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1391 / Virus Database: 1518/3812 - Release Date: 08/05/11   

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Re: [papercreters] Tow Mixer Construction

The stock tanks are thin and tend to crack and leak from metal fatigue due to turbulence in the papercrete, and road bounce. The seam around the bottom will separate from the side, too. The plywood stiffens it a lot, especially if the tank is glued to the plywood. The other half of the plywood makes a nice lid.

If your tank is fairly thick with welded ends then flexing might not be a problem.

The yoke where the universal connects is usually larger than the body of the differential and removing it is fairly involved. To fit plywood over mine I had to oversize the hole and then fill in with bondo. Also, the case had ribs on the outside that required matching slots in the plywood and tank bottom, hard to get a tight fit. The case of my differential seems to be cast iron, which is hard to weld to. If you could do it, you would eliminate that potential leak. It sounds like you have what you need to make a good heavy duty mixer.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information. 

On 8/5/2011 8:06 PM, Alan wrote:

Greetings, Please tell me the reason for the plywood layer under the tank. Is it because the stock tanks are so thin?   Here is what I am thinking.   I have a 1988 Ford F-150 pickup I am getting ready to scrap out. There is my rear axle.   I have a heavy steel 500 gallon round fuel oil tank. I will cut it in half and have two 250 gallon tanks. I will just need to build a cover. I could just cut the bottom out of the second tank.   I have a very old frame from a boat trailer. I am seeing that as a perfect frame to weld to the axle and set the tank on.   Somewhere around here I have several NOS 24" mower blades.   What about getting very radical and cutting the tank neatly to fit the diff. then welding it?     Alan in Michigan

__._,_

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Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
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