Sent from my iPad
Hi Andy
I just got back from an extended road trip and going through the full
inbox I ran across this. I guess all the other moderators were on
holiday too, most new members get approved quickly. Come to think of it,
that may be because I normally keep an eye out for new posts.
One of my experiments might relate to your questions. There is a video at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbBxpDTFduc
that shows bottles going into papercrete. The panels I made are about 8"
thick, and have three layers of bottles in them. I didn't fill the
bottles since I want the air space as extra insulation. Strength wise, I
don't see much difference, especially in an application with compression
loads. While you're in my channel, check out other papercrete related
videos. You might see a little on my underground earthship project, too.
Just letting paper/cardboard sit in water isn't going to do it. Most
folks do a little pre-soak before mixing, but I normally don't. In a
mixer the paper seems to get wet quickly. Cardboard is another matter
and folks who use it say that pre-soak is essential. Drying time is tied
to temperature, humidity, and air circulation. Three months seems like
plenty of time for most blocks as long as they are kept out of the rain
and have plenty of air circulation. There is a lot to be said for using
green blocks. They adhere to each other and/or mortar better than dry
blocks do.
You can cut papercrete blocks with a table saw. Judith did a lot of
block trimming to embed them in a slip formed wall, and she can fill you
in with more details. For more uniformity without having to trim, you
can compress the papercrete into your mold.
You don't really want your blocks to be smooth, you want to leave a
little tooth for your finish coat to adhere properly. That way you won't
need wire or lath.
spaceman
On 1/9/2013 3:25 AM, andytulip40 wrote:
> Hi joined the group today having googled my way through information on papercreting.
>
> I am looking at utilising my domestic waste output (as a new years resolution) I live in the UK and want to reduce the number of large recycle bins outside my house. I want to absorb all waste aside from garden and food waste.
>
> I intend to make papercrete blocks. However this blocks will be thicker than usual blocks as i want to use cans and bottles (glass and plastic) inside. The cans and bottles will absorb waste such a wrappings, packaging. These will then be earth rammed with ssoil/sand from the garden to provide bulk and strength.
>
> The paper and cardboard will then be used to from a papercrete shell aroung the plastic bottles/metal cans. The advantages of this method are that it will
>
> a)utilise all of my non organic doemestic waste (more recycled than paper
> b) offset the amount of papercrete needed and therefore cement required
>
> I have several questions which i hope some of you guys may be able to help me with
>
> 1) I intend to build a standard block What is the minium thickness i could get away with for strength.
> The standard concrete block in UK is 440mm wide, 210mm high and has a thickness of 100mm. This will absorb all pet botttles, cans, soft drinks/beers cans which take up 60mm allowing 20mm thickness of papercrete. Is 20mm sufficient or will the blocks ned to be thicker than 100mm.
>
> 2) having analysed my waste i have more cardboard than paper. Is is possible to have a mix of say 60% cardboard, 40% paper?
>
> 3) i have a dedicated wheelie bin for my pulp. Is it best to add water first allowing paper to pulp over time and absorb water or just do the pulping process in one go.
>
> 4) It is the middle of winter now. How long will it take for blocks to dry inside a cold non heated garage. I intend to start building in March when I have a supply of blocks, weather and daylight on my side, will 2 months drying be sufficient?
>
> 5) I want a uniformed block with straight edges on all sides. looking at pictures of blocks from molds they look a bit wavy. has any of you guys tried cutting papercrete? I would prefer a benchsaw, not handheld as i want a perfect straight cut. Can anyone recommend an appropriate one.
>
> 6) The finish, ideally a smooth tidy finish as this will be on show. When molding the blocks is is wise to apply a primer, of some sort to the finished side so that it comes out of the mold smooth.
>
>
> Apologies for my many questions, but i am taking this project quite seriously. In return if any of you guys needs help or advice in reccling tyres and building with earth rammed tyres i could be you man. i have worked with tyres since 2009 and dug an underground earthship in my garden. Tyres are a great building tool if you have space but are simply too big and rounded to create a finsish without lots of rendering. It is also very labour intensive ramming a tyre properly.
> I got into papercrete from this perspective and can offer lots of advice. Alas my mrs (not a big fan of recycling has banned me from tyres, so I have had to come up with something else.
>
> I appreciate anyones input on my questions as it will hopefully save me many weeks in experimenting.
>
>
>
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