After reading my post I dont think I explained myself very well, I assumed that you would cover your 2x6 rafters with OSB and cover that with some sort of waterproof roofing material, like granulated rolled roofing. Than once that is done go inside and attach the wire or mesh between the rafters and using an air compressor and a ceiling texture hopper then apply your papercrete mixture in layers allowing to dry between applications.
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "countryatheartok" <criswells.ok@...> wrote:
>
> Have you thought of attaching chicken wire or wire mesh (which is way more expense) to the insides of your 2x6 rafters, then spraying papercrete over the wire or mesh until you get the desired thickness, don't try to do it all at once, allow drying time between coats and more wire or mesh if you want a much thicker layer?
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Christine Baker <christine@> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like it might be prohibitively expensive to
> > use papercrete for the roof. I still have
> > several R-30 bags of fiberglass insulation taking
> > up valuable storage space, maybe we'll just use
> > that. Really don't like that stuff anymore, but
> > at least it won't smash people,
> >
> > Christine
> >
> >
> > At 09:04 AM 9/27/2013, you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >Dry papercrete is light, less than 20# per cubic
> > >foot with a light mix. And yes, mix does make a
> > >difference. This light mix would put a load of
> > >20# per square foot on your rafters if you used
> > >1' thick panels. If you ever develop a leak (it
> > >happens) and the papercrete absorbs water
> > >(papercrete loves water) then it will get heavy
> > >fast and that live load goes way up. You should
> > >design for that weight, with a safety factor.
> > >You wouldn't want the roof to come crashing down
> > >onto your bed during a nice soothing rain. I
> > >would design for live load of 100# per cubic
> > >foot of papercrete to cover the possible weight of the absorbed water.
> > >
> > >I am speaking from experience. A decade ago I
> > >had a roof that was papercrete cast in place and
> > >exposed to the air while it dried. I left town
> > >for a couple of days and the monsoon season hit
> > >early. That roof went from 40# per square foot
> > >to a calculated over 200# per square foot in a
> > >few hours. The framing was not designed for that
> > >and the roof met the floor. Luckily there was nobody in between.
> > >
> > >On 9/26/2013 9:38 PM,
> > ><mailto:christine@>christine@ wrote:
> > >>Already have another question, regarding WEIGHT.
> > >>
> > >>We're good for 2".x 6" rafters according to the
> > >>county span table, but how much does papercrete
> > >>weigh? I suppose it depends somewhat on the
> > >>mix and maybe we should try to add really light aggregate.
> > >>
> > >>Â
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>---In
> > >><mailto:papercreters@yahoogroups.com>papercreters@yahoogroups.com,
> > >><mailto:christine@><christine@> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>I've been in this group for years and FINALLY
> > >>get to build again. We finished the
> > >>foundation for our living room / greenhouse
> > >>addition on Monday and will hopefully be framing in a few weeks.
> > >>
> > >>We're using primarily adobe for the outside
> > >>walls, are only framing for corners, doors,
> > >>windows and the roof. We're using 20 ft rafters
> > >>for a conventional "flat" roof covered with OSB, crickets and parapets.
> > >>
> > >>I'd like to use papercrete to insulate the
> > >>roof, but don't know whether it should go on
> > >>top of the OSB or inside between the rafters.
> > >>
> > >>I'm thinking it would be easiest if we made
> > >>papercrete panels and screwed them to the OSB
> > >>and then put the elastomeric with the fabric to
> > >>waterproof it.   I'm afraid that if we pour
> > >>the papercrete in place we'll end up with puddles and eventual leaks.
> > >>
> > >>Also, eventually (when we have more cash), we'd
> > >>like to add skylights or roof quality poly
> > >>panels since we want to grow tomatoes and
> > >>peppers etc. through winter in the addition. We're in NW AZ, lots of sunshine.
> > >>
> > >>One problem is that I'd really like to
> > >>waterproof the roof ASAP (before winter) and it
> > >>would probably take months to make all the
> > >>papercrete panels (it's a 32' x 20' addition)
> > >>
> > >>So I suppose we could also make papercrete
> > >>blocks to fit in between the rafters inside,
> > >>like fiberglass insulation, but that makes it
> > >>tough to add new water and electric lines and
> > >>we always seem to change stuff. And of course
> > >>you have to keep the papercrete in place (fight
> > >>gravity) and it's tough to make them exactly the right size.
> > >>
> > >>My partner would like to cover the rafters with
> > >>wood for a ceiling, but I'm not sure where we'd
> > >>get high quality lumber or panels that we can
> > >>afford. Most of our materials like windows and doors are used.
> > >>
> > >>We're buying a cement mixer from a neighbor and
> > >>I'll start making some test blocks for over
> > >>windows / doors where adobe is too heavy. Â
> > >>Â Was hoping we'd get a tow mixer, but that's just not happening.
> > >>
> > >>I haven't had a whole lot of time to think this
> > >>through and having never worked with
> > >>papercrete, I appreciate any and all suggestions!
> > >>
> > >>Thanks,
> > >>
> > >>Christine
> > >>
> > >>No virus found in this message.
> > >>Checked by AVG - <http://www.avg.com>www.avg.com
> > >>Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6697 - Release Date: 09/25/13
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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