Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Re: [papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium



Instead of 10 people use something you most likely will always have around, a vehicle.  Vehicles all weigh enough to compress lots of things.  Just build your press so you can drive a vehicle onto it and let it sit there for awhile.  Or you could use the pulling power of a vehicle to pull your lever, or you could use the vehicle to push with.  Lots of possibilities.


From: tr <tt10_99@yahoo.com>

 
Very interesting I have been stock piling paper for a couple of years now. with the same thoughts of making plant things. This pallet idea is good but what could you use instead of ten people to stand on the plank. I have pallets I have been stockpiles those also. with the idea of making hydroponic beds from them and was thinking i could use paper slurry to fill the gaps instead of trying to find wood to fill the gaps and then laying plastic to hold the water. But also instead of strofoam I could make a two inch layer of paper crepe to use to float the plants if it would last long enough to hold the plant till growth end.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> I'm totally with the square wooden mould thing. A simple way to get pressure would be to fill the open topped horizontal mould, lay a plank onto the mix and have as many people as possible stand on it. I've done that on a small scale and it worked well, how much weight and pressure can be got onto a larger area I don't know. But I can get some people together & try it.
>
> I like the pallet reuse idea. I'm thinking in terms of removably slotting the mould sides into a base, otherwise I expect removing the compressed paper or papercrete would be impossible.
>
> At the moment I'm thinking of trying 3, one with no cement, one with just a little, one with more. I'm not clear how much cement to use though. Minimising it is certainly necessary.
>
> Looks like I'd need about 11kg paper per 4 cuft stick. That is a lot.
>
> I guess after use they could be repulped and recast, though how well that would work with the roots I'm not sure.
>
>
> thanks
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@> wrote:
> >
> > As far as how long they last, I can't help you with anything difinitive there.
> >
> > They sell "mushroom logs" that are compressed sawdust logs inoculated with mycelium. The shrooms usually cause those to crumble. I suspect one time use is a reasonable expectation.
> >
> >
> > Since you are looking for extreme low cost, I encourage you to consider square pillars instead of round. That would allow you to use things like scrap wooden pallets as a source of material to make a form. It won't be nearly as strong as a metal pipe, but with an appropriately strong design, perhaps strong enough. Then try to come up with a wooden lever arm to thrust a wooden piston inside that square column form. Playing around with the lever arm might give you enough mechanical advantage to put a few hundred lbs of pressure anyway. Perhaps as much as a 1000 if built extremely strong, but it would need to be build like the U.S.S. Constitution. (A very old and extremely strong wooden naval ship... nicknamed "old ironsides" because of it's strength, but the ship never had iron sides, only wood.)
> > http://www.history.navy.mil/ussconstitution/history.html
> >
> >
> > If you built a square wooden form using pallet wood slats laid flat in layers, cross bracing them with each successive layer (predrilling nail holes just enough to keep the wood from splitting) and nailing them down to the previous layer, it should become extremely strong. The trick is to keep everything aligned with other boards standing vertically inside it as guides as you build up the layers. Think along the lines of building a square log cabin using flat boards instead of logs.
> >
> > With careful disassembly of pallets, and a lot of tedious effort, it's possible to build a very strong form reusing the pallet wood and the nails from the pallet. Zero expense other than time invested.
> >
> > The tricky part would be to build the piston mechanism and have it all hold together while putting lots of force on it.
> >
> > I still encourage you to experiment with small scale testing, just to be sure you want to go in this direction. Try a small bucket of paper slurry, drain it, and compress a generous handful in a workshop bench vise. You'll be amazed at how the pulp will transform almost like magic. Just be sure to dry off the vise and wipe it down with oil afterwards to avoid rusting the vise, especially if you borrow a friend's vise and you want to keep them as a friend. :)
>





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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

The smaller the sticks are, the easier of course. But the number 1 consideration is to maximise crop that can be had from a very small ground area of these sticks, so they'll be as high as is practicable.

Re plastic wrap, root penetration I'm not worrying about, once the roots can do that I daresay they can also hold the stick together.

Mould would be a real problem. The climate's hot & dry, but of course it'll be very damp in the stick. Maybe lots of pipnholes in the plastic wrap would solve this, while still achieving the aim of holding it together, and still reducing evaporation. Water costs money in arid places with no mains supply.


thanks


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "eepjr24" <eepjr24@...> wrote:
>
> If you need to move it twice a day, why is it 5 feet tall? Wouldn't it be easier to feed, move and prevent toppling if it was 3' or so?
>
> WRT wrapping in plastic, I don't know what your climate is, but if it is warm and at all humid mold will develop very quickly in the presence of nutrients. I don't know if that will be a problem or not, since you don't have to live inside it. I can tell you from experience that plastic wrap does not stop determined roots. lol. That is one material they make weed barrier out of here and it does not even last a season (Central Florida).
>
> Also, quick reminder if folks could trim their posts it makes it much easier to read in digest.
>
> - E




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Mix
---

You folks have a lot more experience than me with weak papercrete mixes, so what would you suggest? I'll do one with just pulp, and probably 2 with differing amounts of cement. Cost is critical, if cement cost per stick exceeds 30p (1.9kg) then its not doable, and I really want something much cheaper.

The other question is how to treat the papercrete after casting so it doesnt burn plant roots?


thanks




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

If you need to move it twice a day, why is it 5 feet tall? Wouldn't it be easier to feed, move and prevent toppling if it was 3' or so?

WRT wrapping in plastic, I don't know what your climate is, but if it is warm and at all humid mold will develop very quickly in the presence of nutrients. I don't know if that will be a problem or not, since you don't have to live inside it. I can tell you from experience that plastic wrap does not stop determined roots. lol. That is one material they make weed barrier out of here and it does not even last a season (Central Florida).

Also, quick reminder if folks could trim their posts it makes it much easier to read in digest.

- E

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> Watering will be done at the top only - the sides will be plastic wrapped. A weak feed solution will be used, prepared from free materials.
>
> There is a big difference wrt concrete: papercrete is very porous, so localised damage around the roots doesn't need to mean splitting the whole chunk. I'm thinking that the plastic wrap will contain a degree of structural damage, how much only time will tell.
>
> I like the self supporting rootball idea, hopefully both roots and papercrete can support each other and tie the thing together long enough to reach harvest. It will need to be moved twice a day every day though.
>



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Monday, March 18, 2013

[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

The chromium question:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/press/2005/e05006.htm
makes clear that chromium is not a problem in the uk. What the situation is elsewhere I don't know yet.




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Instead of 10 people.... whatever you've got that's heavy. Beware of one thing when doing this kind of compression: take care to keep the compressing plank level, or it upends and squirts the mix out. When I made my test samples I filled the mould to the brim, used a relatively thick plank and stopped compressing when the plank top was level with the mould top. Placing weights - my feet in this case - over both plank and mould sides helped control the tendency for the plank to tip and spray the papercrete out.

Papercrete doesn't float, it sinks. I think you'd need polystyrene for the rafts. Or perhaps you could mould some empty plastic bottles into papercrete rafts.



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "tr" <tt10_99@...> wrote:
>
> Very interesting I have been stock piling paper for a couple of years now. with the same thoughts of making plant things. This pallet idea is good but what could you use instead of ten people to stand on the plank. I have pallets I have been stockpiles those also. with the idea of making hydroponic beds from them and was thinking i could use paper slurry to fill the gaps instead of trying to find wood to fill the gaps and then laying plastic to hold the water. But also instead of strofoam I could make a two inch layer of paper crepe to use to float the plants if it would last long enough to hold the plant till growth end.




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Watering will be done at the top only - the sides will be plastic wrapped. A weak feed solution will be used, prepared from free materials.

There is a big difference wrt concrete: papercrete is very porous, so localised damage around the roots doesn't need to mean splitting the whole chunk. I'm thinking that the plastic wrap will contain a degree of structural damage, how much only time will tell.

I like the self supporting rootball idea, hopefully both roots and papercrete can support each other and tie the thing together long enough to reach harvest. It will need to be moved twice a day every day though.


thanks


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "eepjr24" <eepjr24@...> wrote:
>
> How will you keep it damp? Wicking does not allow much control.
>
> It will not survive plant roots. Even concrete does not survive that and papercrete is much more porous.
>
> I suspect one season would be all you would get before breakdown was significant. I don't know that it would matter, though, since the plant roots would become self supporting at some point as well.
>
> - Ernie
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@" <prrr@> wrote:
>
> > 10" x 5' would weigh excessively when saturated, so it will just be kept damp. But one has to allow for misuse, getting caught in torrential rain etc, so its got to survive saturation.
>
> Paper pulp (even at 15% concrete) does mold. If it can get sun and dry out it will greatly impede mold growth. Adding Borax, boric acid or other mold/insect retardant would assist as well. Not sure of impact on plants.
>
> > Plant roots will try to break the stuff up. Somehow it needs to survive that - I'm hoping a plastic wrap will handle that. Whatever's chosen will get tested of course.
> >
> > Does paper pulp moulder? If so I'm not sure how to stop that.
> >
> > I've assumed so far that these poles would only be good for one season. Perhaps they could last longer somehow?
>




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Very interesting I have been stock piling paper for a couple of years now. with the same thoughts of making plant things. This pallet idea is good but what could you use instead of ten people to stand on the plank. I have pallets I have been stockpiles those also. with the idea of making hydroponic beds from them and was thinking i could use paper slurry to fill the gaps instead of trying to find wood to fill the gaps and then laying plastic to hold the water. But also instead of strofoam I could make a two inch layer of paper crepe to use to float the plants if it would last long enough to hold the plant till growth end.


--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> I'm totally with the square wooden mould thing. A simple way to get pressure would be to fill the open topped horizontal mould, lay a plank onto the mix and have as many people as possible stand on it. I've done that on a small scale and it worked well, how much weight and pressure can be got onto a larger area I don't know. But I can get some people together & try it.
>
> I like the pallet reuse idea. I'm thinking in terms of removably slotting the mould sides into a base, otherwise I expect removing the compressed paper or papercrete would be impossible.
>
> At the moment I'm thinking of trying 3, one with no cement, one with just a little, one with more. I'm not clear how much cement to use though. Minimising it is certainly necessary.
>
> Looks like I'd need about 11kg paper per 4 cuft stick. That is a lot.
>
> I guess after use they could be repulped and recast, though how well that would work with the roots I'm not sure.
>
>
> thanks
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@> wrote:
> >
> > As far as how long they last, I can't help you with anything difinitive there.
> >
> > They sell "mushroom logs" that are compressed sawdust logs inoculated with mycelium. The shrooms usually cause those to crumble. I suspect one time use is a reasonable expectation.
> >
> >
> > Since you are looking for extreme low cost, I encourage you to consider square pillars instead of round. That would allow you to use things like scrap wooden pallets as a source of material to make a form. It won't be nearly as strong as a metal pipe, but with an appropriately strong design, perhaps strong enough. Then try to come up with a wooden lever arm to thrust a wooden piston inside that square column form. Playing around with the lever arm might give you enough mechanical advantage to put a few hundred lbs of pressure anyway. Perhaps as much as a 1000 if built extremely strong, but it would need to be build like the U.S.S. Constitution. (A very old and extremely strong wooden naval ship... nicknamed "old ironsides" because of it's strength, but the ship never had iron sides, only wood.)
> > http://www.history.navy.mil/ussconstitution/history.html
> >
> >
> > If you built a square wooden form using pallet wood slats laid flat in layers, cross bracing them with each successive layer (predrilling nail holes just enough to keep the wood from splitting) and nailing them down to the previous layer, it should become extremely strong. The trick is to keep everything aligned with other boards standing vertically inside it as guides as you build up the layers. Think along the lines of building a square log cabin using flat boards instead of logs.
> >
> > With careful disassembly of pallets, and a lot of tedious effort, it's possible to build a very strong form reusing the pallet wood and the nails from the pallet. Zero expense other than time invested.
> >
> > The tricky part would be to build the piston mechanism and have it all hold together while putting lots of force on it.
> >
> > I still encourage you to experiment with small scale testing, just to be sure you want to go in this direction. Try a small bucket of paper slurry, drain it, and compress a generous handful in a workshop bench vise. You'll be amazed at how the pulp will transform almost like magic. Just be sure to dry off the vise and wipe it down with oil afterwards to avoid rusting the vise, especially if you borrow a friend's vise and you want to keep them as a friend. :)
>




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

How will you keep it damp? Wicking does not allow much control.

It will not survive plant roots. Even concrete does not survive that and papercrete is much more porous.

I suspect one season would be all you would get before breakdown was significant. I don't know that it would matter, though, since the plant roots would become self supporting at some point as well.

- Ernie

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:

> 10" x 5' would weigh excessively when saturated, so it will just be kept damp. But one has to allow for misuse, getting caught in torrential rain etc, so its got to survive saturation.

Paper pulp (even at 15% concrete) does mold. If it can get sun and dry out it will greatly impede mold growth. Adding Borax, boric acid or other mold/insect retardant would assist as well. Not sure of impact on plants.

> Plant roots will try to break the stuff up. Somehow it needs to survive that - I'm hoping a plastic wrap will handle that. Whatever's chosen will get tested of course.
>
> Does paper pulp moulder? If so I'm not sure how to stop that.
>
> I've assumed so far that these poles would only be good for one season. Perhaps they could last longer somehow?




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

I'm totally with the square wooden mould thing. A simple way to get pressure would be to fill the open topped horizontal mould, lay a plank onto the mix and have as many people as possible stand on it. I've done that on a small scale and it worked well, how much weight and pressure can be got onto a larger area I don't know. But I can get some people together & try it.

I like the pallet reuse idea. I'm thinking in terms of removably slotting the mould sides into a base, otherwise I expect removing the compressed paper or papercrete would be impossible.

At the moment I'm thinking of trying 3, one with no cement, one with just a little, one with more. I'm not clear how much cement to use though. Minimising it is certainly necessary.

Looks like I'd need about 11kg paper per 4 cuft stick. That is a lot.

I guess after use they could be repulped and recast, though how well that would work with the roots I'm not sure.


thanks



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> As far as how long they last, I can't help you with anything difinitive there.
>
> They sell "mushroom logs" that are compressed sawdust logs inoculated with mycelium. The shrooms usually cause those to crumble. I suspect one time use is a reasonable expectation.
>
>
> Since you are looking for extreme low cost, I encourage you to consider square pillars instead of round. That would allow you to use things like scrap wooden pallets as a source of material to make a form. It won't be nearly as strong as a metal pipe, but with an appropriately strong design, perhaps strong enough. Then try to come up with a wooden lever arm to thrust a wooden piston inside that square column form. Playing around with the lever arm might give you enough mechanical advantage to put a few hundred lbs of pressure anyway. Perhaps as much as a 1000 if built extremely strong, but it would need to be build like the U.S.S. Constitution. (A very old and extremely strong wooden naval ship... nicknamed "old ironsides" because of it's strength, but the ship never had iron sides, only wood.)
> http://www.history.navy.mil/ussconstitution/history.html
>
>
> If you built a square wooden form using pallet wood slats laid flat in layers, cross bracing them with each successive layer (predrilling nail holes just enough to keep the wood from splitting) and nailing them down to the previous layer, it should become extremely strong. The trick is to keep everything aligned with other boards standing vertically inside it as guides as you build up the layers. Think along the lines of building a square log cabin using flat boards instead of logs.
>
> With careful disassembly of pallets, and a lot of tedious effort, it's possible to build a very strong form reusing the pallet wood and the nails from the pallet. Zero expense other than time invested.
>
> The tricky part would be to build the piston mechanism and have it all hold together while putting lots of force on it.
>
> I still encourage you to experiment with small scale testing, just to be sure you want to go in this direction. Try a small bucket of paper slurry, drain it, and compress a generous handful in a workshop bench vise. You'll be amazed at how the pulp will transform almost like magic. Just be sure to dry off the vise and wipe it down with oil afterwards to avoid rusting the vise, especially if you borrow a friend's vise and you want to keep them as a friend. :)




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

As far as how long they last, I can't help you with anything difinitive there.

They sell "mushroom logs" that are compressed sawdust logs inoculated with mycelium. The shrooms usually cause those to crumble. I suspect one time use is a reasonable expectation.


Since you are looking for extreme low cost, I encourage you to consider square pillars instead of round. That would allow you to use things like scrap wooden pallets as a source of material to make a form. It won't be nearly as strong as a metal pipe, but with an appropriately strong design, perhaps strong enough. Then try to come up with a wooden lever arm to thrust a wooden piston inside that square column form. Playing around with the lever arm might give you enough mechanical advantage to put a few hundred lbs of pressure anyway. Perhaps as much as a 1000 if built extremely strong, but it would need to be build like the U.S.S. Constitution. (A very old and extremely strong wooden naval ship... nicknamed "old ironsides" because of it's strength, but the ship never had iron sides, only wood.)
http://www.history.navy.mil/ussconstitution/history.html


If you built a square wooden form using pallet wood slats laid flat in layers, cross bracing them with each successive layer (predrilling nail holes just enough to keep the wood from splitting) and nailing them down to the previous layer, it should become extremely strong. The trick is to keep everything aligned with other boards standing vertically inside it as guides as you build up the layers. Think along the lines of building a square log cabin using flat boards instead of logs.

With careful disassembly of pallets, and a lot of tedious effort, it's possible to build a very strong form reusing the pallet wood and the nails from the pallet. Zero expense other than time invested.

The tricky part would be to build the piston mechanism and have it all hold together while putting lots of force on it.

I still encourage you to experiment with small scale testing, just to be sure you want to go in this direction. Try a small bucket of paper slurry, drain it, and compress a generous handful in a workshop bench vise. You'll be amazed at how the pulp will transform almost like magic. Just be sure to dry off the vise and wipe it down with oil afterwards to avoid rusting the vise, especially if you borrow a friend's vise and you want to keep them as a friend. :)




--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> 10" x 5' would weigh excessively when saturated, so it will just be kept damp. But one has to allow for misuse, getting caught in torrential rain etc, so its got to survive saturation.
>
> Re the costs of a hydraulic press & high pressure pipe... the aim is for these to be makeable by people that cant come anywhere near affording a bottle jack or pipe. Hence the choice of scrap paper. A wood stick lever is within that budget, but not a pipe mould. This is why I've been looking at a minimum amount of cement. If this goal is truly unachievable, switching to bottle jack & pressure pipe is possible, but it would be a plus to avoid that.
>
> Plant roots will try to break the stuff up. Somehow it needs to survive that - I'm hoping a plastic wrap will handle that. Whatever's chosen will get tested of course.
>
> I was thinking cement could bypass the upfront cost of equipment problem, if the amount used is small & thus cheap. The papercrete could simply be moulded in the plastic film wrap without pressure.
>
> Initial figures suggest the material cost is similar for weak papercrete with scrap plastic wrap versus pulp with proper stretch wrap. The latter also requires equipment, the cost of which is a) prohobitive for most, and b) would increase product price due to amortisation of the equipment cost.
>
> A small scale sample would be a lot easier to make, but would dry out relatively fast creating a watering issue.
>
> Does paper pulp moulder? If so I'm not sure how to stop that.
>
> I've assumed so far that these poles would only be good for one season. Perhaps they could last longer somehow?
>
> thanks for all the input so far.
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the additional info. Your goal is much more clear now.
> >
> > You talk about the need for light weight. I don't see how a 10" diameter 5' high pole will be lightweight when it gets saturated or wicks up hydroponic fluid. The water weight will be far greater than the weight of the paper.
> >
> > I would encourage you to consider not using cement at all. Just make a paper only slurry, drain it on a screen, and COMPRESS it with as much pressure as you can muster into your pole shape. You'll be surprised how strong highly compressed paper pulp will become.
> >
> > Just to be clear, I'm not talking about just pushing on the pulp with your hands to squeeze it with a few pounds of pressure. I'm suggesting using something like a 10 ton hydraulic bottle jack. (They are extremely inexpensive. You may already own one.) If you created a form that could withstand that kind of pressure and compressed damp paper pulp with a few tons of pressure, it may be strong enough for your needs.
> >
> > Almost all of your expense would be in building your high pressure reusable form that will still allow water to drain out of the paper as it gets compressed. I would suggest checking at your local junkyard for steel pipe that is 10" diameter or so, and they trying to build a cap on one end, and a "piston" that can get compressed by a bottle jack into that pipe to squish the paper pulp. The piston need not be a perfect fit, since you'll need to allow water to drain away as the pulp gets compressed.
> >
> > You should almost be able to turn scrap paper back into logs of wood with such a device.
> >
> > Of course, without anything added to the paper, those logs will mold easily and have practically zero tensile strength, particularly when damp.
> >
> > Before investing time and money in the big fancy pipe and piston, I suggest experimenting in a small scale using whatever scraps you have laying around and with whatever jack or other compression device you already have. Then you'll start to get a feel for what compression can really do to damp paper pulp.
> >
> >
> > You may or may not find these thoughts helpful, but perhaps there are some ideas in there that will inspire you to find a solution you like that works for your situation. Feel free to try whatever variations make sense to you.
> >
> > Please post updates and photos as your project progresses.
> >
>




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Sunday, March 17, 2013

[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

10" x 5' would weigh excessively when saturated, so it will just be kept damp. But one has to allow for misuse, getting caught in torrential rain etc, so its got to survive saturation.

Re the costs of a hydraulic press & high pressure pipe... the aim is for these to be makeable by people that cant come anywhere near affording a bottle jack or pipe. Hence the choice of scrap paper. A wood stick lever is within that budget, but not a pipe mould. This is why I've been looking at a minimum amount of cement. If this goal is truly unachievable, switching to bottle jack & pressure pipe is possible, but it would be a plus to avoid that.

Plant roots will try to break the stuff up. Somehow it needs to survive that - I'm hoping a plastic wrap will handle that. Whatever's chosen will get tested of course.

I was thinking cement could bypass the upfront cost of equipment problem, if the amount used is small & thus cheap. The papercrete could simply be moulded in the plastic film wrap without pressure.

Initial figures suggest the material cost is similar for weak papercrete with scrap plastic wrap versus pulp with proper stretch wrap. The latter also requires equipment, the cost of which is a) prohobitive for most, and b) would increase product price due to amortisation of the equipment cost.

A small scale sample would be a lot easier to make, but would dry out relatively fast creating a watering issue.

Does paper pulp moulder? If so I'm not sure how to stop that.

I've assumed so far that these poles would only be good for one season. Perhaps they could last longer somehow?

thanks for all the input so far.



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the additional info. Your goal is much more clear now.
>
> You talk about the need for light weight. I don't see how a 10" diameter 5' high pole will be lightweight when it gets saturated or wicks up hydroponic fluid. The water weight will be far greater than the weight of the paper.
>
> I would encourage you to consider not using cement at all. Just make a paper only slurry, drain it on a screen, and COMPRESS it with as much pressure as you can muster into your pole shape. You'll be surprised how strong highly compressed paper pulp will become.
>
> Just to be clear, I'm not talking about just pushing on the pulp with your hands to squeeze it with a few pounds of pressure. I'm suggesting using something like a 10 ton hydraulic bottle jack. (They are extremely inexpensive. You may already own one.) If you created a form that could withstand that kind of pressure and compressed damp paper pulp with a few tons of pressure, it may be strong enough for your needs.
>
> Almost all of your expense would be in building your high pressure reusable form that will still allow water to drain out of the paper as it gets compressed. I would suggest checking at your local junkyard for steel pipe that is 10" diameter or so, and they trying to build a cap on one end, and a "piston" that can get compressed by a bottle jack into that pipe to squish the paper pulp. The piston need not be a perfect fit, since you'll need to allow water to drain away as the pulp gets compressed.
>
> You should almost be able to turn scrap paper back into logs of wood with such a device.
>
> Of course, without anything added to the paper, those logs will mold easily and have practically zero tensile strength, particularly when damp.
>
> Before investing time and money in the big fancy pipe and piston, I suggest experimenting in a small scale using whatever scraps you have laying around and with whatever jack or other compression device you already have. Then you'll start to get a feel for what compression can really do to damp paper pulp.
>
>
> You may or may not find these thoughts helpful, but perhaps there are some ideas in there that will inspire you to find a solution you like that works for your situation. Feel free to try whatever variations make sense to you.
>
> Please post updates and photos as your project progresses.
>




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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Thanks for the additional info. Your goal is much more clear now.

You talk about the need for light weight. I don't see how a 10" diameter 5' high pole will be lightweight when it gets saturated or wicks up hydroponic fluid. The water weight will be far greater than the weight of the paper.

I would encourage you to consider not using cement at all. Just make a paper only slurry, drain it on a screen, and COMPRESS it with as much pressure as you can muster into your pole shape. You'll be surprised how strong highly compressed paper pulp will become.

Just to be clear, I'm not talking about just pushing on the pulp with your hands to squeeze it with a few pounds of pressure. I'm suggesting using something like a 10 ton hydraulic bottle jack. (They are extremely inexpensive. You may already own one.) If you created a form that could withstand that kind of pressure and compressed damp paper pulp with a few tons of pressure, it may be strong enough for your needs.

Almost all of your expense would be in building your high pressure reusable form that will still allow water to drain out of the paper as it gets compressed. I would suggest checking at your local junkyard for steel pipe that is 10" diameter or so, and they trying to build a cap on one end, and a "piston" that can get compressed by a bottle jack into that pipe to squish the paper pulp. The piston need not be a perfect fit, since you'll need to allow water to drain away as the pulp gets compressed.

You should almost be able to turn scrap paper back into logs of wood with such a device.

Of course, without anything added to the paper, those logs will mold easily and have practically zero tensile strength, particularly when damp.

Before investing time and money in the big fancy pipe and piston, I suggest experimenting in a small scale using whatever scraps you have laying around and with whatever jack or other compression device you already have. Then you'll start to get a feel for what compression can really do to damp paper pulp.


You may or may not find these thoughts helpful, but perhaps there are some ideas in there that will inspire you to find a solution you like that works for your situation. Feel free to try whatever variations make sense to you.

Please post updates and photos as your project progresses.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> Many questions here, so I'll explain.
>
> The idea is to make a vertical rod of weak papercrete or similar, and put several food producing plants into it. The reasons for papercrete or pulp are that it can be made out of garbage - cost is critical - and its light, enabling it to be moved twice a day, which will be needed. Paper of course offers no nutrients, so basic hydroponics will be used, basic meaning no nutrient testing involved, and just partial reuse of the water given to the plants.
>
> Composting isn't that practical, it would greatly reduce the amount of soil replacement material, make it much heavier and take a long time to deploy. The idea is to make the soil replacement lightweight to enable moving lots of these things about daily. They'll never be planted in the ground.
>
> Is cement papercrete safe to grow food crops in? I assumed not due to chromium. If it is, the question would be solved. Biodegradability isn't an issue.
>
> Re water evaporation, I was thinking the cheapest option would be to wrap the pole in polythene, or perhaps clingfilm.
>
> Dimensions aren't yet decided, but as a starting point something like 10" diameter 5' high. There would probably be a wood stake up the centre for support.
>
>
> thanks
>
>
>
> --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Please provide more details.
>




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Saturday, March 16, 2013

[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Many questions here, so I'll explain.

The idea is to make a vertical rod of weak papercrete or similar, and put several food producing plants into it. The reasons for papercrete or pulp are that it can be made out of garbage - cost is critical - and its light, enabling it to be moved twice a day, which will be needed. Paper of course offers no nutrients, so basic hydroponics will be used, basic meaning no nutrient testing involved, and just partial reuse of the water given to the plants.

Composting isn't that practical, it would greatly reduce the amount of soil replacement material, make it much heavier and take a long time to deploy. The idea is to make the soil replacement lightweight to enable moving lots of these things about daily. They'll never be planted in the ground.

Is cement papercrete safe to grow food crops in? I assumed not due to chromium. If it is, the question would be solved. Biodegradability isn't an issue.

Re water evaporation, I was thinking the cheapest option would be to wrap the pole in polythene, or perhaps clingfilm.

Dimensions aren't yet decided, but as a starting point something like 10" diameter 5' high. There would probably be a wood stake up the centre for support.


thanks



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "JayH" <slurryguy@...> wrote:
>
>
> Please provide more details.




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Re: [papercreters] Dang! I hate Spammers with a passion!!

Why? I use G+ and have had no problems. Is there something we should
know about it?

On 3/16/2013 4:49 AM, JayH wrote:
> Here is a tip: Stay away from Google Plus. FAR FAR AWAY.
>
>
> I now return you to your regularly scheduled papercrete discussions.
>
>
>



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[papercreters] Re: Papercrete as growing medium

Please provide more details.

Are you trying to make biodegradable pots?
or
Are you actually trying to grow plants in paper pulp instead of soil.

Either is possible.

For most garden type plants, I suggest simply composting. Most paper composts extremely well if mixed with nitrogen rich materials such as green plant trimmings/weeds, manure, etc. This is the method I recommend the most. I have composted a lot of nasty paper waste that had started to mold or stink. Adding the nasty stuff to my compost pile is a great way to turn a big mess into something worthwhile and get it out of my way at the same time. Given proper composting ratios, plus enough time, and paper will turn into great garden soil that can grow almost any plant.




Paperboard plant pots have been around for decades. You can make your own by simply pulping up a bunch of paper and compressing drained damp pulp into a flower pot shaped form. Then set your pots out to dry before using. They will hold their shape surprisingly well, but will break down and disappear in time. This type of plant pot can be simply buried in the ground along with the plant to become part of the soil when transplanting.

Using a similar procedure, paper with cement added can make a "somewhat" longer lasting plant pot, but will be far less biodegradable. It won't be a good pot to plant in the ground and it will wick moisture unless the pot is sealed with something like a elastomeric paint.

Growing plants in paper instead of soil can work, but you'll probably need to supply the plants with fertilizer to give them enough nutrition. It all depends upon what plants you are growing and what their nutrition requirements are. I'm no expert, but I suspect something like orchids, which hardly require any soil at all might fare reasonably well growing in paper pulp chunks with some air gaps in between. I've never tried this, though, so proceed with care. Try it on something easily replaceable to see how well it works before trying it on your last favorite prized orchid.





--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "prrr.t21@..." <prrr@...> wrote:
>
> I'm intersted in the possibility of using paper pulp / papercrete as a growing medium. Added cement looks like an unideal choice because of chromium and who knows what else in it, so is there anything else that could provide enough strength to stop the paper pulp liquifying when soaked? The current plan is to reinforce it with sticks to hold it up, I just need it to not liquify in heavy rain or when saturated.
>
> Cost is critical, I'm looking for the cheapest option if possible.
>
> thanks
>




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[papercreters] Dang! I hate Spammers with a passion!!

Here is a tip: Stay away from Google Plus. FAR FAR AWAY.


I now return you to your regularly scheduled papercrete discussions.







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[papercreters] Papercrete as growing medium

I'm intersted in the possibility of using paper pulp / papercrete as a growing medium. Added cement looks like an unideal choice because of chromium and who knows what else in it, so is there anything else that could provide enough strength to stop the paper pulp liquifying when soaked? The current plan is to reinforce it with sticks to hold it up, I just need it to not liquify in heavy rain or when saturated.

Cost is critical, I'm looking for the cheapest option if possible.

thanks




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Friday, March 15, 2013

[papercreters] Fw: Turtle Island Preserve has sent you a message




----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Change.org <mail@change.org>
To: jgbigard@yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2013 9:01 PM
Subject: Turtle Island Preserve has sent you a message

 
Change.org
Dear Joe,

Thanks for signing my petition, "North Carolina Building Codes Council: Alter NC building codes to exempt structures at Turtle Island Preserve.."

Can you help this petition win by asking your friends to sign too? It's easy to share with your friends on Facebook - just click here to share the petition on Facebook.

There's also a sample email below that you can forward to your friends.

Thanks again -- together we're making change happen,

Turtle Island Preserve

---------

Note to forward to your friends:

Hi!

I just signed the petition "North Carolina Building Codes Council: Alter NC building codes to exempt structures at Turtle Island Preserve." on Change.org.

It's important. Will you sign it too? Here's the link:

http://www.change.org/petitions/north-carolina-building-codes-council-alter-nc-building-codes-to-exempt-structures-at-turtle-island-preserve

Thanks!

Joe
This email was sent by Change.org to jgbigard@yahoo.com.
Didn't sign this petition? Click here.
You can edit your notification preferences or unsubscribe from Change.org emails.
Start a petition on Change.org
Mailing address: Change.org. 216 West 104th Street, Suite #130, New York, NY 10025. USA




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Re: [papercreters] Fox News



I am at work and was there yesterday as well, when stupidly I opened it, but I know they have a good firewall and virus protection so I doubt anything will come of it.  I didn't bother opening it today, based on yesterday's experience.


From: spaceman <Spaceman@starship-enterprises.net>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2013 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Fox News

 
Yahoo has had a real problem with hacked email accounts. I would not open anything like this, myself. It is easy to see from the URL that it has nothing to do with Fox News.

Meanwhile, I hope everyone has a good firewall and virus scanner running 24/7. Just clicking on many of these links will earn you an infection.

On 3/15/2013 11:04 AM, David Jungeblut wrote:
A link with no commentary at all...
probably not legitimate.
Don't open it before hearing from one of the moderators.

Is everybody getting hacked???
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6155 - Release Date: 03/07/13
Internal Virus Database is out of date.





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Re: [papercreters] Fox News



Yahoo has had a real problem with hacked email accounts. I would not open anything like this, myself. It is easy to see from the URL that it has nothing to do with Fox News.

Meanwhile, I hope everyone has a good firewall and virus scanner running 24/7. Just clicking on many of these links will earn you an infection.

On 3/15/2013 11:04 AM, David Jungeblut wrote:
A link with no commentary at all...
probably not legitimate.
Don't open it before hearing from one of the moderators.

Is everybody getting hacked???

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6155 - Release Date: 03/07/13
Internal Virus Database is out of date.




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Re: [papercreters] Fox News



A link with no commentary at all...
probably not legitimate.
Don't open it before hearing from one of the moderators.

Is everybody getting hacked???


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[papercreters] Fox News





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Thursday, March 14, 2013

Re: [papercreters] Breaking news



 oh crap I opened it up!


From: T Phillips <doglover1918@gmail.com>
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [papercreters] Breaking news

 
Looks like Jay got hacked...

On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 8:43 PM, Jay Hawk <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
http://www.feuerwehr-looft.de/fdgdtl/jzwr/rgamrd



--
"It's gonna be a good day today, people! Speak it into existence!"

Lord, keep Your arm around my shoulder
and Your hand over my mouth. Amen.
                                          Texas Prayer





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Re: [papercreters] Breaking news



Looks like Jay got hacked...

On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 8:43 PM, Jay Hawk <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:



--
"It's gonna be a good day today, people! Speak it into existence!"

Lord, keep Your arm around my shoulder
and Your hand over my mouth. Amen.
                                          Texas Prayer



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[papercreters] Breaking news





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Saturday, March 9, 2013

[papercreters] Re: possibility of visiting a papercrete structure?

Looking into that, though he has no classes scheduled until next March according to his website.

Was just hoping someone on list would be close to our route home and we could get a chance to come see a finished structure from a regular home builder type (a bit closer to our skill level) and not someone so experienced as to be teaching the classes in doing papercrete.

We feel that someone at that level would be great...someone less experienced can give us more ideas of what to expect as beginners.

Anyway, will keep looking around and see what we can come up with.




--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Erik Holmquist <erikh@...> wrote:
>
> Check out Barry Fuller in Tempe/ Maricopa AZ. He has a couple of projects in that area.
>




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