So a minute or two of mixing is the difference. At Judiths we literally put whole unsoaked cardboard boxes in the mixer (and I mean tape and all), drove the mixer around a bit (perhaps someone that was there could say how long the mixer was driven around. I don't think it was but 5/10 minutes) and it seemed pretty darn good. Although I thought the mix a bit on the wet side but what do I know, I'm not in the thick of it as yet. So in your estimation it is worth the extra step to shred? I think what I am trying to ask is if shedding the paper creates a faster set. I am thinking that it does not have anything to do with the setting time but it does have to do with the uniform look of the final product. I'm not sure but it would seem to me that the first layer would need to set up at least over night in order to put another layer on top or because one shreds the cardboard one can add the next layer within, lets say, the same day because it is set enough? But in thinking about it I would assume that it would depend on how much cement one puts in the mix?
I wish you the very best, Bob, with selling your wares this season. I thought about you while I was at Judith's.
Yes, the finer shred requires very little soaking, I've even used it
unsoaked, just add water and blend, I can't really tell the difference,
except if I don't soak it some, it takes a little longer to blend but
we're only talking about a minute or two. The courser shred does
require overnight soaking and then it blends very fast. And yes I think
all papercrete walls should be sealed although the one I built in my
photos has not been sealed yet and we've had some pretty good rains and
it's held up very well, but I will stucco it with cement and sand and
maybe a finish coat of paint, not sure about the paint yet, I may just
color the cement and sand mixture.
Bob the builder
--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Evelyn Vollmer <evelynanne8@...>
wrote:> On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 4:59 PM, countryatheartok criswells.ok@...
>
> So what you are saying is because you shred the cardboard it sets up
faster?
> I understand that it depends on the mix and everyone has developed
their own
> special mix. When shredded the individual bits are soaked faster and
> probably more complete and that would make for a more uniformed look
to the
> final product. My thought is that even after you have completed the
wall (or
> whatever it is that you are making) there would still be a need to
cover it
> with something to prevent water absorption.
>
> I was surprised with the slurry that we made at Judiths, at first we
were
> soaking the cardboard and then putting it in the tow mixer. After
awhile we
> were just throwing in cardboard without being soaked as you saw in the
> photos. What surprised me was after the truck made it's round it was
mixed
> pretty well and looked good but perhaps it's because Judith likes her
slurry
> pretty wet? After pouring the first level (I will mention that on that
first
> level we would use 5 gallons of latex paint per tow mixer because she
felt
> that it would be a better water bearer, which to me is a good idea)
the next
> day the slurry on that level was still quite wet but I assume that was
> because of the paint and a wet slurry. Well I got off my point of
topic. I
> am trying to figure out if shred the cardboard is better? It seems
that
> spaceman is looking into a shredder so perhaps this extra step is
something
> to consider?
>
> I do believe that this topic has been discussed before
> but.................After reading this I realize I am
rambling......since
> landing there at home I've been working by bu!! off till right now...I
have
> the next four days off and can finally unpack!
>
>> --
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I know most of you will think I'm crazy for shredding cardboard, you
> > probably think it takes for ever. It does take a while but the end
> > results are great. I can take the shreds and in less than 1 minute
have
> > very fine paper pulp, I just add my cement to that mix a little
longer,
> > then add my clay or sand or a combination of both and its ready to T
> > Lock. I also up loaded an old file of a T Lock that is about 8' long
and
> > you can see how the skirt is supported by the T locks up to 25'
long.
> > Much like Ron & Doris slipforms being supported by their bar clamps.
> > After they pour their slipform and it sets up, they remove their bar
> > clamps and fill the resulting holes with "Foam in a can". After I
pour
> > my T Lock Blox, I remove the skirt and then remove the T Lock forms
and
> > set them on top of the next row, and reattach the skirt. I usually
put a
> > T Lock form at one end and another at the other end and then attach
the
> > skirt and then install all the other T Lock forms in between.
> >
> > Bob the builder
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
--
Chinese herbals for the Western Mind
www.ozbotanicals.com
Skype~eve8mon
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