So what you are saying is because you shred the cardboard it sets up faster? I understand that it depends on the mix and everyone has developed their own special mix. When shredded the individual bits are soaked faster and probably more complete and that would make for a more uniformed look to the final product. My thought is that even after you have completed the wall (or whatever it is that you are making) there would still be a need to cover it with something to prevent water absorption.
I was surprised with the slurry that we made at Judiths, at first we were soaking the cardboard and then putting it in the tow mixer. After awhile we were just throwing in cardboard without being soaked as you saw in the photos. What surprised me was after the truck made it's round it was mixed pretty well and looked good but perhaps it's because Judith likes her slurry pretty wet? After pouring the first level (I will mention that on that first level we would use 5 gallons of latex paint per tow mixer because she felt that it would be a better water bearer, which to me is a good idea) the next day the slurry on that level was still quite wet but I assume that was because of the paint and a wet slurry. Well I got off my point of topic. I am trying to figure out if shred the cardboard is better? It seems that spaceman is looking into a shredder so perhaps this extra step is something to consider?
I do believe that this topic has been discussed before but.................After reading this I realize I am rambling......since landing there at home I've been working by bu!! off till right now...I have the next four days off and can finally unpack!
I know most of you will think I'm crazy for shredding cardboard, you
probably think it takes for ever. It does take a while but the end
results are great. I can take the shreds and in less than 1 minute have
very fine paper pulp, I just add my cement to that mix a little longer,
then add my clay or sand or a combination of both and its ready to T
Lock. I also up loaded an old file of a T Lock that is about 8' long and
you can see how the skirt is supported by the T locks up to 25' long.
Much like Ron & Doris slipforms being supported by their bar clamps.
After they pour their slipform and it sets up, they remove their bar
clamps and fill the resulting holes with "Foam in a can". After I pour
my T Lock Blox, I remove the skirt and then remove the T Lock forms and
set them on top of the next row, and reattach the skirt. I usually put a
T Lock form at one end and another at the other end and then attach the
skirt and then install all the other T Lock forms in between.
Bob the builder
--
Chinese herbals for the Western Mind
www.ozbotanicals.com
Skype~eve8mon
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